1700s Cavanserai or Han, Eminönü District, Istanbul (Nov. 2024)

The Ottomans conquered Constantinople on May 29, 1453, after a 55-day siege. Unlike the exhausted, bankrupt (financially and politically), and demoralized Byzantine Empire, the Ottomans were energetic and militarily more sophisticated. The Ottomans already controlled the vast hinterland of Anatolia and swaths of the Middle East. To encourage trade, they built caravanserai, protected and safe trading posts, where merchants could shelter over the night or during bad weather and exchange goods. They were safe from bandits. Many semi-ruined caravanserai are still found in remote areas, attesting to trade routes. (As an aside, my dad, a hydraulic engineer, often asked where these remote outposts got drinking water. Were areas of Anatolia wetter in the Medieval period?)

Some of these caravanserai, also known as han, are in the Eminönü district of Istanbul. They were originally intended to serve as inns and trading centers, where merchants operated shops and warehoused goods. Hundreds of years later, these hans are still in use.  

Büyük Yeni Han, completed in 1764 (Leica M2, 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon lens)

Büyük Yeni Han (note the air conditioners)

From Wikipedia:

The han' is located in the central historic market district that extends from the Grand Bazaar to the Eminönü neighbourhood on the shore of the Golden Horn. Since the founding of the first bedesten by Mehmet II in the mid-15th century, the Grand Bazaar developed into the city's main hub of international trade, spawning entire districts of shops, warehouses, and merchant lodgings. A han, a type of urban caravanserai, was a common type of commercial structure in Ottoman architecture (and more broadly in Islamic-world architecture) which served a number of functions including lodging for foreign merchants, storage for goods or merchandise, housing for artisan workshops, and offices from which to conduct dealings. A number of hans were built over the centuries in and around the Grand Bazaar district. The Büyük Yeni Han was completed in 1763 or 1764 CE (1177 AH) on the orders of Sultan Mustafa III.

A structure from the 19th century bridges across the courtyard, unfortunately blocking the grand expanse of the original rectangle han.

Entrance archway to Büyük Yeni Han (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

I stumbled into the Büyük Yeni Han somewhat by accident. I was looking for a balcony or platform to take some pictures of the rooftops. I walked into the arch and saw some steep dark steps leading upwards. That seemed promising. Soon I was on the third level. There was even a rough but usable lavatory up there.

I love complicated rooftops like this. It is a pity that most of the modern buildings are rectangle concrete boxes.

Houses built into the side of Büyük Yeni Han

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the ultimate arcade of them all. But it is so clean! The ceiling is decorated, the floors are polished, and it is well lit. And there is WiFi, and no one smokes inside. And people pay with plastic. Where is the earthy bazaar I recall from 1965?

Modern arcade in the Sultanahmet area

Well, Istanbul never ceases to provide interesting subject material. It is on my must-return list. If you have not been there, GO VISIT.

I took these photographs with Kodak Tri-X film using my Leica M2 and various lenses. Northeast Photographic in Bath, Maine developed the film in Xtol. I scanned it on a Nikon Coolscan 5000 scanner.

Eminönü in the Rain, Istanbul, Turkey (Nov. 2024)

The Eminönü neighborhood of Istanbul includes the bustling docks facing the Golden Horn, Eminönü Square, and the steep twisty streets reaching up into the heart of the Fatih District. This is historic Istanbul, occupied for 2000+ years. It is a warren of twisting steep roads dating back to who knows when, possibly the Roman era? It is so much fun to be in a place that has been occupied for centuries. 

The Golden Horn from the Eminönü district

After a week of wonderful sun, the winter rain finally came. Wet streets and drizzle, perfect for some Tri-X. We will start at the waterfront near the Egyptian (Spice) Market and work our way up the hill towards Sultanahmet. Street life is a visual delight in Istanbul. Please click any picture to enlarge it.

Hanging around near the Egyptian Market (21mm Zeiss Biogon lens)

Near the Egyptian Market (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

Checking the shops near the Egyptian Market, Yeni Cami Cd

Fincancilar Sk, Fatih area

On the hill, Cakmakcilar Yks, Fatih

At the Grand Bazaar (at the end of the street)

Afternoon tea (or a cola??)

Chestnut vendor, Sultanahmet

Portrait at the Blue Mosque

Cemetery near Istanbul University

This ends our rewarding day in the rain and drizzle. The light is softer and the glistening alleys and streets add some interest. 

I took these photographs on Kodak Tri-X 400 film with a Leica M2 camera and 21, 35, and 50mm lenses.

In the Footsteps of Ara Güler in Istanbul (Nov. 2024)

Ara Güler was a famous mid-century Turkish photographer (1928-2018). He recorded the lives of dock workers, merchants, sailors, stevedores, and citizens going about their daily lives. Ara was a member of the Magnum photography cooperative. 

"I'm looking for the reality that passes in front of me."

The Ara Güler Müzesi is located in a residential neighborhood in northwest Istanbul. The museum is in a converted beer brewery, a bit of a metro ride and walk from the normal tourist areas. It displays some of his original silver gelatin prints (meaning real photographic paper) plus artifacts from his working years. The number of prints on display is limited but well worth the visit if you like to view the work of photography masters.

Gular's well-used Leica IIIC camera with a later vintage 50mm ƒ/3.5 Elmar lens

Example of reviewing proof sheets and choosing the most interesting frame

Selection of frames from a film strip

Well, needless to say, I will never be an Ara Güler, but I tried to take similar pictures around the waterfront that show the bustle and activity of Istanbul. Güler was well known for his waterfront pictures, so let's walk in his footsteps.

On the Bosphorus

The Golden Horn view west with the Suleymaniye Mosque in the distance

The Golden Horn and the Galata Tower

Karaköy waterfront from the Galata Bridge

Fish market, Karaköy

Waiting for a fish, Galata Bridge

On the Galata Bridge

On the Galata Bridge

I took these photographs with my Leica M2 camera on Kodak Tri-X film, exposed at EI=250. Güler used Tri-X as well as other films from the period. He also did some color work, but I think he is mostly remembered for his B&W photographs.

On the Waterfront - Seattle, Washington (Summer 2024)

The Seattle waterfront has changed drastically since I lived in Seattle in the mid-1970s. At that time, the horrible 2-level Alaskan Viaduct snaked along the waterfront. Underneath was a sort of nether-land, similar to the underside of the Southeast Expressway in Boston. But at least there was parking under the concrete. Back then, waterfront Seattle was a working district, with warehouses, small factories, and industrial activities. 

Today, the viaduct is gone! Alaskan Way is sunny. Now there are bike lanes, gardens, and a clean new surface street, Elliott Way. Warehouses have been rebuilt into condominiums, and totally new buildings have been erected. And the traffic flows underneath through the SR99 tunnel. 

Alaskan Way

Pier 50 view north along Alaskan Way (Kodak Tri-X film, Rolleiflex 3.5E camera)

The grotesque viaduct once marred this view. Now this is a cheerful and popular bund or esplanade.

This monstrous cruise ship loomed over the waterfront. I have never been close to a vessel this large. It was like a floating office building. I can understand why more and more popular destinations in the Mediterranean, like Venice, Santorini, and Barcelona, object to these ships disgorging thousands of tourists in a short period. They overwhelm the local infrastructure, water supply, and plumbing. But the merchants like the shoppers.

Pier 70 view south along Alaskan Way from the Olympia Sculpture Park

Sounder commuter train

BNSF tracks near Pier 66

In the past, I wondered where the trains came from that ran on the tracks parallel Alaskan Way. I only recently learned that the Great Northern Tunnel extends for about a mile under the business district. This was a major engineering accomplishment in 1904. The southern entrance is just north of the King Street station. The northern entrance emerges from the mountain almost under the Pike Place Market. The opening is obscured by fencing along Elliott Way.  This is another example of the great engineering that made a nation. 

Great Northern Tunnel north entrance (Samsung phone digital file)

BNSF freight train near Pier 70

It feels like a train comes along about every 15 minutes. The amount of commerce is amazing.

Pike Place Market

Everyone takes pictures and selfies at the famous Pike Place Market. My Olympia photography friend comes here often and does excellent work. I took pictures in the Market in 1973 when I lived in Seattle. 

The famous Pioneer Building is a Richardsonian Romanesque edifice of stone, red brick, terra cotta, and cast iron. It faces Pioneer Square, now rather grungy because of the homeless and filth. 

I remember entering the Pioneer Building when it was being renovated in the early 1970s. There was an inner atrium with iron railings. Somewhere in the basement was the well-known French restaurant, the Brasserie Pittsbourg. I remember eating here with friends and, possibly, my dad. Do I have any photographs from those happy and innocent 1970s?

Entrance to the Brasserie Pittsbourg, March 3, 1970 (courtesy of the Seattle Public Library, photograph by Werner W. Lenggenhager, 1899-1988)

This ends our short walk in downtown Seattle and along the waterfront. I took these photographs on Kodak Tri-X 400 film with a Rolleiflex 3.5E camera with 75mm ƒ/3.5 Xenotar lens. This is a 1959 model still going strong. Most Rolleiflex twin lens cameras are superb picture machines. Praus Productions in Rochester, NY, developed the film.

This was article Sea 05

On the Waterfront at the Chehalis River - South Aberdeen, Washington

Chehalis River basin (based on USGS National Map data, from Wikimedia Commons)

The Chehalis River drains a broad area of western Washington's coastal hills and lowlands. This was an immensely rich timber area from the late-1800s to the mid-20th century. Logs in vast quantities floated down the river to timber mills and processing companies along the riverfront between Aberdeen and South Aberdeen. 

2004 aerial photograph of South Aberdeen, with the Chehalis River in the foreground

This is a view from 2004, when a friend flew me from Olympia to the coast. In 2004, the waterfront just to the right of the highway bridge was occupied by a mill and lumber storage. Today, the Grays Harbor Historical Seaport occupies at least one building, and a roof truss company is in another.   

Chehalis River view east or upriver

For over a century, State and national agencies proposed to convert the lower stretch of the Chehalis River into a canal between Grays Harbor and Olympia. The project floated around for at least a century, but was never funded. Considering the environmental impact and cost, we are unlikely to ever see this idea again.  

The Lady Washington sometimes moors here at the historical seaport. It is a replica brigantine launched in 1989.

Concrete building of unknown purpose

I need to return and explore the Chehalis River waterfront in more detail.

Fun viewing at Rte 107 and Minkler Road

Further upriver in South Montesano, a collector has some interesting old trucks and a Studebaker Lark in his yard. The Lark was a decent car for the early-1960s, but it was not successful enough to save the company.  

Never-finished Satsop nuclear power plant

Continue upriver, and you reach the astonishing concrete monoliths that were once intended to become Satsop nuclear power plant units WNP-3 and WNP-5. The State of Washington intended to build five nuclear power plants. One, WNP-2, was completed and went into operation in 1984. The other four bogged down with massive cost overruns, managerial failures, incompetence, and technical changes. In 1983, the Washington Public Power Supply System (WPPSS), better known as "Whoops," became the biggest municipal bond default of all times. (The bonds from WNP-2 became a remarkable investment because they were tainted by the bonds from the defaulted units).  

Today, two monumental cooling towers loom over the valley at Satsop. The incomplete containment buildings look like brutalism architecture run extreme. When our society collapses and we lose history records, future residents of the valley will look at these monoliths and wonder if aliens or the gods built them. What were they for? Were they religious structures? Is a King buried beneath?

I plan to return to the site. It is not quite an urban decay topic. These things will not decay; they are too strong. The concrete will harden for centuries, millennia. But they are grotesque.

The black and white photographs above are Kodak Tri-X 400 from my Fuji GW690II camera, the "Texas Leica," with a 5-element Fujinon 90mm ƒ/3.5 lens. Praus Productions in Rochester, NY, developed the film in Xtol.

On the Waterfront at the Wishkah River - Aberdeen, Washington

Grays Harbor, map generated from https://graysharborwa.mapgeo.io/datasets

Geologic Setting

Aberdeen is a seaport at the east end of Grays Harbor, an estuary on the Pacific coast of the Olympic Peninsula. Grays Harbor is one of three major estuaries on Washington's Pacific coast. Willapa Bay, south of Grays Harbor, is the second, and the lower Columbia River is the third. Grays Harbor (with no apostrophe) was named after Captain Robert Gray, who entered the bay in 1792 during one of his  fur-trading voyages along the north Pacific coast of North America. 

An estuary is an embayment or river mouth that experiences mixing of salt and fresh water. Grays Harbor is an excellent example, because the tide enters the Pacific mouth of the bay and mixes with fresh water from the Chehalis, Wishkah, Hoquiam, and Humptulips Rivers. Sediments and flora reflect this mixing of waters. Marshes often form in brackish water.  

Puget Sound is a much larger geological feature in the Washington coast and is classified as a sound. Some of the river mouths and embayments that enter the sound, like Budd Inlet here in Olympia, can be considered small esturaries, but none of these are as extensive features as Grays Harbor, Willapa, or the Columbia River.   

Grays Harbor, Willapa Bay, and the Columbia River were dangerous entrances during the sailing era. Hundreds of vessels floundered in the waves and the treacherous sand banks, especially in winter. This is why Puget Sound was such an amazing resource. It provided calm water that did not freeze in winter. Sailing vessels could escape from the rough Pacific Ocean into relatively sheltered water. Seattle is one of the great natural harbors of the world (along with Victoria (Hong Kong), Sydney, New York, Busan, Rio de Janeiro, Halifax, and others).   

Aberdeen 2004 (Hasselblad Xpan Panoramic camera)

Aberdeen

Aberdeen was once one of the largest timber processing and shipping ports on the Pacific coast. Timber companies floated vast amounts of lumber down the Chehalis River to numerous mills along the waterfront.  The city expanded greatly in the 1920's when lumber exports grew in response to factors like the opening of the Panama Canal and the earthquake in Tokyo, which resulted in fires that burned much of the city. 

Aberdeen had a tumultuous history of union organizing, epic labor strife, criminal syndicates, violence, murder, and Communist organizing. This is fascinating stuff, but this history well beyond the scope here.

The photograph above is a 2004 aerial view of South Aberdeen in the foreground and downtown Aberdeen in the distance. The Chehalis River flows from left to right in the foreground and then curves left and flows towards the open water of Grays Harbor. I took this with a Hasselblad XPan panoramic camera from my friend's cloth airplane. 

Wishkah River

The Wishkah River is a tributary of the Chehalis. It drains a wooded and mountainous region of Grays Harbor country north of Aberdeen. It flows south through Aberdeen, with some old bridges and interesting infrastructure. The photos below are of the downtown area along the Wishkah.

East Wishkah Street lift bridge

This is the type of bridge that pivots up. You can see the counterweights hanging from the frame on the opposite side of the river. 

Wishkah River and the old Northern Pacific Railroad swing bridge

Pilings and debris, Wishkah River

South F Street

Northern Pacific swing bridge

I could not find much information about this bridge. It is unusual for swing bridges because the pivot is at the edge of the channel. Only one side projects over the water. The electric light is on, but I do not know if the bridge can swing. Freight trains cross it regularly. A sign said no trespassing, but plenty of homeless people cross. Someone may even live in the turret under the central pivot. 

Junction where swing bridge meets fixed track

I like these complicated pieces of early 20th century industrial infrastructure. This was massive construction, but I am sure it needs a lot of maintenance now.  

A homeless tent community occupies East River Street. While I was taking pictures, a few of them walked by and were very polite. Do they live here in winter? It would be pretty grim with the long wet nights and cold wind blowing in from Grays Harbor. 

I took these photographs on Kodak Tri-X 400 film with my "Texas Leica," the Fuji GW690II camera with a 90mm ƒ/3.5 Fujinon lens. Praus Productions in Rochester, New York, developed the film in Xtol.