Saturday, October 31, 2026

From the Archives: Όχι Day in Athens, October 1951

Background 


October 28, 2026, occurred in the middle of last week. Here in USA, it was just another Wednesday (other than our standard political turmoil and high-level fraud in Washington). 

But in Greece, October 28 is a profoundly important national holiday, Όχι Day. Oxi means No in Greek. It commemorates the beginning of World War II for Greece when General Metaxas told Mussolini's envoy, "Όχι." It marked Greece;'s entry into World War II and the remarkable first defeat of the Axis powers.

From Wikipedia:

Shortly after 03:00 on 28 October 1940, the Italian ambassador in Athens, Emanuele Grazzi, delivered an ultimatum from the Italian dictator, Benito Mussolini, to Greece's leader, Ioannis Metaxas, at his residence in Kifissia. The ultimatum demanded that Greece allow Axis forces to cross the Greek-Albanian border and occupy certain "strategic positions" within Greek territory, or else face the prospect of war. Metaxas refused, replying in French, then the language of diplomacy: "Alors, c'est la guerre" ("Then, it is war").

Italian forces stationed in Albania, then under Italian rule, attacked the Greek frontier in Epirus at 05:30, half an hour before the ultimatum expired. The Greek army halted the invasion by mid-November 1940 and then counter-attacked into southern Albania.

  

30 October 1940 newspaper with editorial about Oxi (from Wikipedia, in the common domain)


My stepdad was a newly-graduated surgeon and was drafted into the Greek Army. The army marched to the Albanian frontier. The Greek forces pushed back and devastated the Italian troops, pushing them  into the mountains of Albania.  

As the winter of 1940-1941 progressed (one of the most severe of the century), the Italian troops were woefully unprepared. They had not been equipped with winter clothing or cold weather equipment, and they suffered horribly. My stepdad told me that he frequently amputated toes and fingers of Italian men who had suffered frostbite and developed gangrene. Note this is a Greek surgeon saving Italian soldiers in a Greek field hospital.  

Adolf Hitler reluctantly decided that he needed to rescue his Italian ally, Benito Mussolino, whose army was bogged down in the mountains of Albania. Another consideration was if Greece remained in Allied hands, British bombers might be able to bomb the oil fields in Romania, whose oil was crucial for Germany's economy and Hitler's planned invasion of the Soviet Union. 

The German army invaded Greece on April 6, 1941. The German forces rapidly overran Greek, British, Australian, and New Zealand defenders and ended the battle decisively by April 30. 

My stepdad said after the surrender, the Greek army was disbanded. He and other officers used mules and long marches to return to Athens. (Note, it is a long trek across the Pindus mountains from Albania to Athens).   

The incredible battles in the mountains of Albania may have ultimately led to the failure of the German invasion of the Soviet Union. After conquering Greece, the German troops and equipment had to return to Germany for reequipping and reorganization. They invaded the Soviet Union on June 22. Had they started a month or six weeks earlier, they might have been able to reach Moscow before the onset of the terrible Winter of 1941-1942. Adolf Hitler himself blamed the failure of his invasion of the Soviet Union on Mussolini's inability to conquer Greece. Historians will debate this indefinitely. But for the sake of this blog, let's conclude that the Greeks saved the western world.   

Here are some of my dad's Kodachrome slides from Όχι Day in 1951. 


Syntagma


Hellenic Parliament building (formerly the Royal Palace)
A cowgirl and a Scotswoman?

Corner of Panepistimiou and Kriezotou Streets

 

This was the view from a balcony on the Hotel Grande Bretagne. The hotel is one of the most fashionable accommodations in the heart of the city. 


Odos Panepistemiou

 

Schliemann mansion, now the Numismatic Museum of Athens

Fortunately, Heinrich Schliemann's (the controversial excavator of Troy) magnificent neoclassical building has been preserved and houses the Numismatic Museum of Athens. 

Papudov Mansion (no longer extent)

This building may be the former Papudov Mansion, at the corner of Vasilissis Sofias Avenue and Panepistimiou. It was built in the late 1890s for a Russian banker, Aristeidis Papudov. In 1970, a developer demolished the grand mansion and replaced it with a revolting glass box hotel, which failed soon after. 

The frantic building boom of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s destroyed much of Athens' neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture. Today, much of the city is a concrete jungle of uninteresting and tired square buildings of no architectural merit, far too little green space, and congested streets.

 

 

An American in Paris Athens

My dad took these slides with Kodachrome film with his Leica IIIC rangefinder camera and a 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. This Kodachrome had a film speed of Weston 8 or ASA 10. He measured light with a GE PR-1 light meter. I scanned the slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner running under Nikon Scan 4.03 software. 


Saturday, October 24, 2026

More Big Skies, Silos, and Geology - Eastern Washington 2026 (Part 2)

We continue our June 2026 road trip into central eastern Washington. 

Heading north into the north central part of the state, the terrain becomes more hilly. Occasional coulees (water-scored gullies) downcut into the underlying basalt. It is fascinating geology.

Odessa is a city in wheat country. We saw some German influence. Here in central Washington? I read later that some 80 percent of the immigrants in the late 1800s were Germans from Russia. 


Farm house near Odessa

Grand Coulee (the city) is located next to Lake Roosevelt, which is the Columbia River upstream of the huge Grand Coulee dam. Basalt walls loom above the city - it has a nice physical situation. The town itself is not too exciting. But it has an excellent coffee shop, the appropriately named Voltage Coffee House on Spokane Way. After driving through central Washington, it was time to stop for some volts. An old shed was next door.   

 

Head southwest along the spectacular Coulee Boulevard. It. runs along the west edge of the coulee (canyon), with basalt cliffs looming above you to the east. Banks Lake glistens blue to the west. But where to stay? Ah, ha, the Ala Cozy Motel in Coulee City. (The names are confusing; this is a different city than Grand Coulee.) Dinner at Couleegan's Bar & Grill was this incredible broasted chicken. Wow, enough chicken for a week of road trip!

 


 Coulee City is pretty quiet. But it had some interesting silos on the west edge of town.

 


 

Continue southwest to the Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Park. Here, rock outcrops and lakes are more examples of the scouring and downcutting from the immense floods that coursed across this land when glacial Lake Missoula burst through its ice dam.

 

Fractured basalt boulder near Umatilla Rock, Sun Lakes-Dry Falls State Park

After hiking in Dry Falls, continue southwest to Quincy for a visit to the Ancient Lakes. There are several easy hikes, and you can camp here (but beware, the water in the lakes is farm runoff, so not drinkable).

Ancient Lakes from Upper Trailhead (Samsung phone digital file)
Hexagonal basalt and waterfall below the Upper Trailhead

Fractured basalt boulder near Lower Trailhead (Kodak T400CN film, 50mm ƒ/1.8 Canon lens) 

We reluctantly headed west towards Ellensburg. This is a nice college town. After hundreds of miles in eastern Washington, we were hungry. Dear readers, you know where this is going. We went to Smokey's on Pearl Street. Ahhhh....

Carnivore's delight - Smokey's on Pearl Street

This ends out June 2026 road trip in eastern Washington. There is more to explore. Time to return with a 4×5" camera.

I took the square pictures with a Rolleiflex 3.5E twin-lens camera with 75mm ƒ/3.5 Xenotar lens (5-element version) on Kodak Ektar 100 film. Glazer's Camera in Seattle, Washington, developed the film and scanned it with a Noritsu system. 

 

Rolleiflex 3.5E with 75mm ƒ/3.5 Schneider Xenotar taking lens



Saturday, October 17, 2026

Big Skies, Silos, and Farms - Eastern Washington 2026 (Part 1)

Eastern Washington is topographically and climatologically so different than the Puget Lowlands of western Washington. It is so much fun to head east of the Cascades and explore farm roads and byways. In June 2026, a friend and I took a road trip to look at the Channeled Scablands, the geological remains of the immense floods from glacial Lake Missoula. But here, we will look at farms and cultural features. 

We started our trip in Hood River, Oregon, and proceeded east along the south bank of the Columbia River. This was the route that my dad took in 1949 when he stopped at the famous Celilo Falls. We drove through the Wallula Gap and emerged in eastern Washington. 


Umatilla

 

The cowboy of 6th Street
A giant cowboy! Did we drive to west Texas? No, just an enthusiastic advertisement for Harvest Foods. Chicken drumsticks only $1/lb. 

 

Lamar 

 

Lamar is a farming community on the Touchet River. This is wheat-growing country, so there are silos to store the produce. 

  



Palouse Falls State Park


 

Palouse Falls is in one of the coulees gouged out to the basalt by the great floods. The Palouse Falls State Park Heritage Site is on Palouse Falls Road in LaCrosse. It is a drive but really worthwhile. You need a Washington State Discover Pass for entry. We saw marmots everywhere, quite tame. But that means tourists feed them. Don't do that!

2025 view SW of the Palouse River
(Portra 160 film, Pentax MG, 50mm ƒ/2 Rikenon lens)


Washtucna


Forgotten farmhouse, Rte 261 north of Washtucna

Washtucna is pretty quiet. I stopped in town during my 2025 road trip. For this 2026 trip, we continued north. I want to return to this area with B&W film, maybe with a 4×5" camera.

 

Ritzville

 

Ritzville is in the heart of wheat farm country. I remember when a college roomate and I stayed with his family in Ritzville in the early 1970s. US farmers had just begun to sell wheat to the Soviet Union, and Washington farmers were happy and buying new combines and other farm machinery. These wheat sales were an admission by the Soviet regime that they were unable to feed their own people. The sales started trade in other commodities with the Soviet Union. They were an element of Richard Nixon's program of détente during the height of the cold war.

 

North Division Street
North Division Street
The Top Hat, 210 East 1st Avenue
No more food here, 509 West 1st Avenue


I am really enjoying eastern Washington. It reminds me of my road trips through west Texas or other farm areas in the Southwest. The big sky dominates the scene, and lonely houses or silos pop up as you round a bend in a road. The people you meet are friendly, but it is a lonely terrain.

I took these photographs on Kodak Gold 200 film with a Rolleiflex 3.5E twin lens reflex camera. It has a 75mm ƒ/3.5 Xenotar lens (5 element version). Glazer's Camera in Seattle developed the film and scanned the negatives with a Noritsu system. 

 

Saturday, October 10, 2026

Danger: More GAS and the Zeiss Ikon ZM Rangefinder Camera

Self-control Failure

Yes, I utterly failed GAS control again. I bought another rangefinder camera, a Zeiss Ikon ZM. I used Leica M3 and M2 cameras for 40 years. They did not have built-in light meters, and I wanted extra convenience in a busy setting, such as city photography (or when the relatives were impatient). What camera body would provide auto exposure with M-mount lenses? Choices in 2025 were limited.

  1. Minolta CLE from the 1980s. No, too old.
  2. Leica M7. The luxury option - tempting! Nice!
  3. Zeiss Ikon ZM from 2005.
  4. Bessa R2A or R3A. My friend in town said repairs were an ugly experience, and he thought they felt rather discount. And now they cost $1200+ from the Japanese vendors. No.
  5. Konica Hexar RF. Rare and may not be totally compatible with Leica M lenses (a controversial topic among internet warriors). No.
  6. Rollei 35RF "Classic Edition," 2002. Special edition of the Bessa R2 camera. Rare.  

In 2025, Glazer's Camera in Seattle, Washington, listed a clean ZM for an acceptable price. I drove north and bought it. 


Zeiss Ikon ZM with 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss C-Biogon lens and Leica 21mm viewfinder

Zeiss Ikon ZM

Zeiss started selling the ZM in 2005-2006. The camera was about the same size as a Leica M but was a bit lighter. It has a brilliant clean viewfinder. The auto-exposure function allows quick field work. Cosina in Japan manufactured the body, but it was significantly different than the Bessa bodies that Cosina also built. I will not review the technical details of the ZM because they are available on sites such as at Camera-Wiki and Casual Photophile. 

Some users complained that the rangefinder patch blanked out if their eye was not directly centered in the finder. This seldom was a problem for me. 

Zeiss also introduced a series of ZM lenses in Leica M mount. Many reviewers say the ZM lenses offer similar performance to Leica lenses but at lower price. I have the Zeiss ZM 21mm ƒ/4.5 Biogon lens and love it. As of 2026, some of the ZM lenses are still available new. The 50mm ƒ/1.5 C-Sonnar is a modern update to the classic Sonnar formulation. 

Alas, despite the technical excellence, the ZM body did not sell well, and Zeiss ended production in 2012. Their timing was rough because the digital tsunami was overwhelming the photography world during the early 2000s. Very few new film cameras sold then, and the market was awash with used film cameras that people were clearing out from their homes and studios. (That was the time to buy great bargains.)
 
But today, the ZM appears to be selling well. It is an alternative to the much more expensive Leica M7. 

 

Zeiss Ikon body with 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens
Top view showing large shutter speed control

 

Incompatible M-mount Lenses 

The Zeiss Ikon body will accept most Leica M mount lenses as well as older thread-mount lenses with the appropriate LTM-M adapter. I have used mine with my 1950 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens and a 1962 Soviet Юпитер-8 lens. In fact, the Summitar performs better on this ZM body than it does on my Leica IIIC body (the latter has some problem in its lens mount). 

Leica M bodies have a rangefinder base length (meaning the distance from the middle of the viewfinder window to the middle of the rangefinder window) of 69.25mm. Leitz set this in 1954, and all Leica M cameras since then have used 69.25mm. The ZM has a base length of 75mm. Therefore, Leica lenses with auxiliary goggles will not work properly because the goggles will not align with the ZM's windows:

  • 35mm ƒ/3.5 Summaron-RF
  • 35mm ƒ/2.8 Summaron-RF (6-element design with lanthanum glass)
  • 35mm ƒ/2 Summicron-RF (the famous 8-element design)
  • 135mm ƒ/2.8 Elmarit

From personal experience, I know that the 50mm ƒ/2 Summicron-DR (dual-range) lens will not mount correctly on the ZM body. That is my favorite 50mm lens. Instead, I can use the Type 4 Summicron.

 

The body of the ZM is about the same width and depth as a Leica M. But the ZM is a bit taller. The film rewind is on the bottom, so the left side of the ZM is smooth. A Pentax MX camera is smaller in all dimensions except for the hump of the prism. 

 


The Pentax MX really is a gem of compact engineering. (I like geeky pictures like this. But, of course, they have little to do with real photography out in the field.)
 

Minor Repair

 
The shutter speed control lost its click detents. I do not know what shutter speeds it set, and I ruined part of a roll of film. Fortunately, the technician at Camera Solutions in Portland, Oregon, was able to repair it. But this was a simple mechanical issue; what about a more major failure, such as the electronic shutter?? 

Film Examples

 
Here are samples from Oregon and western Washington with various lenses. Click any picture to enlarge it.
 
 
Gift store, Newport Beach, Oregon (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)
Post office, Menlo, Washington (5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens)
House with posters, Naselle, Washington (21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon-C lens)
Attack flamingos guarding the property, Central Street, Olympia (21mm Biogon-C lens)
Graffiti, below Henderson Park Lane, Olympia (21mm Biogon-C lens)
Rail line, Henderson Park Lane (90mm ƒ/4 Elmar-M lens)
Motel, 1st Street, Shelton (50mm ƒ/2 Summicron (Type IV) lens)
Alley off Broadway, Aberdeen (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)
Former Reliable Steel, West Bay Drive NW, Olympia (21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon-C lens)
Zenker Valley Road, Centralia (90mm ƒ/2.5 Leica Summarit lens)
Autumn on Zenker Valley Road, Centralia (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)
 

Summary

 
This camera is fun. The Zeiss Ikon ZM is easy to use and is lighter than Leica M bodies. All my lenses focus correctly. Even my 1950 Summitar lens performs remarkably well when mounted on this body. The auto exposure system seems foolproof. 
 
Final thought: Highly recommended so long as you can accept the fact that the ZM is an electronically controlled device. It does not seem to be as robust as Leica M film cameras. If the ZM breaks, possibly only Zeiss in Germany will repair it (and at quite a price).