The Grand Tour 07: Kodachrome Slides from Central Europe, 1950

 

After a week in Italy, my dad took the train to Verona and proceeded north over the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck. Before leaving for Austria, he had to check in at the office of the Allied High Command in Rome to secure the appropriate visa. Although it was five years after World War II had ended, Austria was still under joint occupation by the Western Allies and the Soviet Union.

 

Salzburg, Austria

  

Bürgerwehr fortification on the Mönchsberg mountain, Salzburg

View from the top (from Hohensalzburg Fortress)

Salzburg is such an interesting and historical town. These scenes probably do not look all that different than they do today. The Europeans manage to preserve their historical architecture and use it for day-to-day life. Compare and contrast with many ghastly American cities with their crumbling strip malls.

I traveled through Salzburg in 1979. Time to return. 

 

Vienna

 

In 1950, Vienna was still a divided city. My dad toured in the International Zone (the Innere Stadt) and possibly the US and British zones. I am sure he did not try to enter the Soviet zone, which would have been dirty and largely unrestored.  

Watch the superb film noir movie, The Third Man, directed by Carol Reed, to get the flavor of 1949 Vienna. It covers some of the issues of a divided city. Even better, read the novel by Graham Green.

 

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe outside the Burggarten Gate along Goethegasse

Goethe (1749–1832) was one of Germany's most influential writers and poet (as well as being a geologist). His masterpiece is the drama, Faust. I started to read an English translation but did not get too far. It may be easier to get the flavor of the story by watching a performance of Faust, Charles Gounod's superb grand opera in five acts. 

 

The Votivkirche on the Ringstraße 

The church was badly damaged in the war, but I do not know if this picture shows it after or before renovations.

 

The Wiener Staatsoper with wartime damage still being repaired

This is one of the most active performance houses in the world, with opera, concerts, dance and other functions every day of the week. I remember seeing Tristan und Isolde in 1979 with a student ticket -  I stood in the top balcony for over four hours.

 

Jungfrau, Switzerland 

  

Helping with maintenance on the Jungfraujoch (elev. 3454 metres)

 Zurich, Switzerland

 

In the November sun, Zurich

Zurich

Zurich is in north-central Switzerland. If you have flown to or through Switzerland, there is a good chance your flight passed through Flughafen Zürich (ZRH). This was my dad's last stop in Switzerland before taking the train to Paris. 

 

TWA Lockheed Constellation, Genève Aéroport, August 1952

This 1952 picture is from a later trip to Genève, but I could not resist showing it here. This is a Trans World Airlines Lockheed Super Constellation L-1049. TWA had just introduced it to their transatlantic service, and this would have been one of the early stops in Switzerland. The flight would have required refueling in Goose Bay and Gander en route.

I scanned these Kodachrome slides with a Nikon CoolScan 5000ED film scanner. I adjusted the color of some frames with Photoshop Elements 2024 and manually cleaned some scratches with the heal tool in Photoshop CS6. There is no Ai manipulation or "restoration" of these pictures. They were taken by a real human with a Leica camera.

 

 

The Grand Tour 06: Kodachrome Slides from Campania, Venice, and Rome, 1950

 

Continuing his long 1950 voyage back to the USA, my dad took a steamer from Alexandria, Egypt, to Genoa, Italy, with a stopover in Syracusa. He wrote in his diary it was a rough crossing, with many passengers seasick. After disembarking, he took a bus tour along the coast and to Pompeii. The following day, he entrained to Rome. 

 

 Syracuse, Sicily

 

The famous amphitheater was excavated from the limestone in the early Imperial Era (approx. 100 BC).  The superstructure is gone. 

 

Amalfi Coast, Campania

 

The famous Amalfi Coast, at the southern edge of the Sorrentine Peninsula in Campania, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This view is from the town of Ravello looking south towards Minori and Maiori. The spectacular coast is now horrendously over-touristed.

 

Rome

 

The Arch of Septimius Severus (203 AD), Roman Forum

The Roman Forum - where are all the tourists? (October 27, 1950)

Piazza della Rotondo (Pantheon). The Albergo del Sole is now a boutique hotel.

 

Venice

 

After a few days in Rome, my dad took the train to Venice. He noted that the car was unheated and he had to wear his topcoat in the compartment. Fortunately, Venice was sunny and warmer.

 

View from the top, Piazza San Marco from St Mark's Campanile

Piazza San Marco, November 1 or 2, 1950

Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront

Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal (Nov. 1, 1950). Where are all the tourists?

Venice really is a fantastic destination. The Rialto bridge and the nearby market area is most interesting. I have not been to Venice since 2013 - much too long. By all means, make it a life goal to see the islands, canals, architecture, and the opera - but go off season. Just do it.

Rialto Bridge in 2013 with a few more people (digital file)

  

After a few days in Venice, my dad took the train to Verona and changed to a train heading to Innsbruck via the Brenner Pass. 

My dad took the 1950 photographs on Kodachrome film with his Leica IIIC camera and a 5 cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. I scanned the slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner run by NikonScan 4.03 software. On some frames, I corrected color casts with the color correction tool in Photoshop Elements 2024. It is surprisingly effective. 

 Next: central Europe. 

 

The Grand Tour 05: Beirut and Kodachromes from Cairo, 1950

  

Beirut, Lebanon 

 

On the Avenue des Français, Beirut, Lebanon, October 14, 1950 (post card)

After leaving Delhi, my dad flew to Beirut on Pan American Airlines. It was a long trip, with stops in Karachi and Basra. Each stop wasted time with passport and cholera certificate inspections.  

Oddly, I did not see any slides from Beirut but came across a commercial post card. He never mailed it, and there was no location information. Was it Manila? Alexandria? Using the Google image search function, I saw a photograph taken by Mahmoud Hammad, a Syrian photographer featured in the Atassi Foundation for Arts in Damascus. He photographed some gents standing at the same balustrade with the same arched building in the background.

This was the famous corniche along the sea, the Avenue des Français. But it no longer exists because the bay was filled in with garbage during the horrifying Lebanese civil war of the 1970s. 

My dad wrote, "Beirut turned out to be a pretty clean place and the people looked European altho many of them wore the fez and there were some Arab costume." 

I vaguely remember Beirut from a visit with my mother some time in the late-1950s. She liked the city. It was sophisticated, cosmopolitan, and clean, and the women were modern and dressed stylishly. The cuisine was famous. It was known as the "Paris of the Middle East" prior to the 1975 Civil War. 

 

Cairo, Egypt

 

On the rent-a-camel

What do most tourists do immediately after they have checked into their Cairo hotel? They go to the Giza plateau to see the pyramids and the Sphinx. Where did the fez come from?

 

View west towards Giza

In this scene, this part of Cairo is a nasty collection of dirty 3- and 4-floor flats. As I recall from 1978, many parts of the city did not look much different, but some of the flats were crumbling. (One day, I will scan my 1978 Cairo slides.)

 

 Tea shop 

Tram - once one of the world's largest streetcar systems

Pet camel

Talaat Harb Street in downtown Cairo

Semiramis Hotel (built in 1907) on the left and the "new" Shepheard Hotel

My dad stayed in the Shepheard Hotel in 1950. My wife and I also stayed there in 1978. But by then, it looked rather tired and well-used. The original Shepheard Hotel, the one you see in mystery movies and Agatha Christs stories, was somewhere downtown, but it burned in a 1952 fire.

 

Mosque and madrasa of Sultan Hassan, Salah al-Din Square, built between 1356 and 1363 CE 

This ends a quick trip to 1950 Cairo. It is a fantastic destination. Go there as one of your life goals. Just do it.

My dad took these Kodachrome slides with his Leica IIIC camera and its 5 cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. I scanned them with a Nikon CoolScan 5000ED film scanner running NikonScan 4.03. I made minor color corrections with Photoshop Elements 2024. 

 These were all real photographs taken by a real human 75 years ago - NO Ai GARBAGE.

 

Addendum 

 

My mom and dad returned to Egypt possibly in 1955, but I do not have an exact date. 

 

On the rent-a-camel

Happy rent-a-camel

  

The Grand Tour 04: Kodachrome Slides from Thailand and India, 1950

 

On my dad's trip westward, he flew from Hong Kong to Bangkok and then proceeded on to India.

Bangkok, Thailand

 

At the Grand Palace, Bangkok

Unfortunately, I did not see any pictures of the once-famous floating markets. In the last 50+ years, many of the canals were covered and turned into highways. 

Delhi, India

In 1950, India was also in turmoil because the chaotic and terrible 1947 partition between India and Pakistan was only three years in the past. I do not know why my dad chose to fly to Delhi on his grand tour, but he arrived there on October 6 of 1950. Many of his pictures were typical tourist snaps. I will skip the temples and monuments and show street scenes or markets. 

I love the cars in the last scene. A big Chevrolet, a Citroën Traction Avant, some little English cars, and some horses. It is hard to see on this scale, but the Chevrolet has right-hand drive. 

 

 

New Delhi 

 

 

This is the Ritz cinema, possibly near the Kashmere Gate in New Delhi. It took some searching in Google to find the location, but fortunately, people in India post thousands of photographs of everything. 

 

The Old Delhi Railway Station is only a few blocks away. I wish my dad had taken some pictures there of the architecture and of trains. 

 

 

This incredible edifice is the Laxminarayan Mandir, a Hindu temple in New Delhi, India. I thought it must date to the Mohguls, but I was surprised to read that it is modern. It was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi in 1939. 

Agra

 

Agra is a city on the Yamuna river in Uttar Pradesh. Most tourists go there to see the famous Taj Mahal, a marble mausoleum built by Shah Jahan. My dad took 10s of snapshots there, but here are some of his street scenes, instead.

 

Drum brake repair shop. Note hand-cranked blower

Procession or funeral (?)

 

This ends a short visit to north central India in 1950. In 1958, my dad returned to Delhi with my mom and me in tow, but I do not remember any details. It was another life, another era. 

 

I scanned these Kodachrome slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner operated by NikonScan V. 4.03, running on WIN 7. I corrected some colors with Photoshop Elements 2014.

 

 Addendum

 

 

My mom and me, somewhere near Darjeeling, north India, April 1958.

 

 

The Grand Tour 03: Kodachrome Slides from Hong Kong, 1950

Hong Kong was the first stop on my dad's ambitious Grand Tour westward en route home to Massachusetts. For a New England boy, this destination may have felt exotic, a hint of the Orient.  He arrived in Hong Kong on October 30, 1950, after a long flight via Manila. 

In 1950, Hong Kong was a crucial strategic outpost for the American and European powers. The brutal and terrible Chinese Civil War was over, and Mao Tse-tung's communist forces had defeated Chiang Kai-shek's Kuomintang army in 1949. China had become a closed society. Thousands of refugees had fled to Hong Kong before Mao sealed the borders. Hong Kong was still a British Crown Colony in the post-war period when the United Kingdom still maintained some of its overseas empire. 

You will see more than the normal number of photos below because they show a Hong Kong that has changed drastically, a city without skyscrapers and with rice terraces on the hillsides. It was dramatically less urbanized than it is now. Please click any picture to see more detail.  

Victoria Harbour

This is the view from Victoria Peak of Victoria Harbour, one of the world's great natural harbors. It is a spectacular view, accessible by the Peak Tramway. There are two aircraft carriers at anchor, a non-subtle hint to Mao Tse-tung to behave and not try to invade the colony.

The waterfront from Wan Chai or Kowloon was always dynamic. Thousands of refugees lived on these sampans. As of 2014, I did not see these floating communities. I love the elegant motor launch in the photo above. Behind it is one of the traditional ferries.

Kowloon

In 1950, Kowloon was a crowded area of low-rise building and slums, densely occupied by refugees. Crime was rampant.  

       

Hong Kong Island (Central and Wan Chai)

Electra House

Electra House (also called Mercury House) was Cable & Wireless Ltd.'s regional headquarters on Connaught Road Central.

Carnarvon Road

Hennessy Road, Wan Chai district

This ends our quick stopover in the Hong Kong of 1950. My dad only stayed a few days and proceeded on to Bangkok.

I posted some of his B&W photos earlier (click the link). 

He took these Kodachrome slides with a Leica IIIC camera with 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. I think he used a GE PR-1 light meter at the time. I scanned the slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner running under NikonScan 4.03 software. Many of the colors were off, but I corrected most using the automatic color function in Photoshop Elements 2024 software.