From the Archives: Όχι Day in Athens, October 1951

Background 

October 28, 2026, occurred in the middle of last week. Here in USA, it was just another Wednesday (other than our standard political turmoil and high-level fraud in Washington). 

But in Greece, October 28 is a profoundly important national holiday, Όχι Day. Oxi means No in Greek. It commemorates the beginning of World War II for Greece when General Metaxas told Mussolini's envoy, "Όχι." It marked Greece;'s entry into World War II and the remarkable first defeat of the Axis powers.

From Wikipedia:

Shortly after 03:00 on 28 October 1940, the Italian ambassador in Athens, Emanuele Grazzi, delivered an ultimatum from the Italian dictator, Benito Mussolini, to Greece's leader, Ioannis Metaxas, at his residence in Kifissia. The ultimatum demanded that Greece allow Axis forces to cross the Greek-Albanian border and occupy certain "strategic positions" within Greek territory, or else face the prospect of war. Metaxas refused, replying in French, then the language of diplomacy: "Alors, c'est la guerre" ("Then, it is war").

Italian forces stationed in Albania, then under Italian rule, attacked the Greek frontier in Epirus at 05:30, half an hour before the ultimatum expired. The Greek army halted the invasion by mid-November 1940 and then counter-attacked into southern Albania.

  

30 October 1940 newspaper with editorial about Oxi (from Wikipedia, in the common domain)

My stepdad was a newly-graduated surgeon and was drafted into the Greek Army. The army marched to the Albanian frontier. The Greek forces pushed back and devastated the Italian troops, pushing them  into the mountains of Albania.  

As the winter of 1940-1941 progressed (one of the most severe of the century), the Italian troops were woefully unprepared. They had not been equipped with winter clothing or cold weather equipment, and they suffered horribly. My stepdad told me that he frequently amputated toes and fingers of Italian men who had suffered frostbite and developed gangrene. Note this is a Greek surgeon saving Italian soldiers in a Greek field hospital.  

Adolf Hitler reluctantly decided that he needed to rescue his Italian ally, Benito Mussolino, whose army was bogged down in the mountains of Albania. Another consideration was if Greece remained in Allied hands, British bombers might be able to bomb the oil fields in Romania, whose oil was crucial for Germany's economy and Hitler's planned invasion of the Soviet Union. 

The German army invaded Greece on April 6, 1941. The German forces rapidly overran Greek, British, Australian, and New Zealand defenders and ended the battle decisively by April 30. 

My stepdad said after the surrender, the Greek army was disbanded. He and other officers used mules and long marches to return to Athens. (Note, it is a long trek across the Pindus mountains from Albania to Athens).   

The incredible battles in the mountains of Albania may have ultimately led to the failure of the German invasion of the Soviet Union. After conquering Greece, the German troops and equipment had to return to Germany for reequipping and reorganization. They invaded the Soviet Union on June 22. Had they started a month or six weeks earlier, they might have been able to reach Moscow before the onset of the terrible Winter of 1941-1942. Adolf Hitler himself blamed the failure of his invasion of the Soviet Union on Mussolini's inability to conquer Greece. Historians will debate this indefinitely. But for the sake of this blog, let's conclude that the Greeks saved the western world.   

Here are some of my dad's Kodachrome slides from Όχι Day in 1951. 

Syntagma

Hellenic Parliament building (formerly the Royal Palace)

A cowgirl and a Scotswoman?

Corner of Panepistimiou and Kriezotou Streets

 

This was the view from a balcony on the Hotel Grande Bretagne. The hotel is one of the most fashionable accommodations in the heart of the city. 

Odos Panepistemiou

 

Schliemann mansion, now the Numismatic Museum of Athens

Fortunately, Heinrich Schliemann's (the controversial excavator of Troy) magnificent neoclassical building has been preserved and houses the Numismatic Museum of Athens. 

Papudov Mansion (no longer extent)

This building may be the former Papudov Mansion, at the corner of Vasilissis Sofias Avenue and Panepistimiou. It was built in the late 1890s for a Russian banker, Aristeidis Papudov. In 1970, a developer demolished the grand mansion and replaced it with a revolting glass box hotel, which failed soon after. 

The frantic building boom of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s destroyed much of Athens' neoclassical and Art Nouveau architecture. Today, much of the city is a concrete jungle of uninteresting and tired square buildings of no architectural merit, far too little green space, and congested streets.

 

 

An American in Paris Athens

My dad took these slides with Kodachrome film with his Leica IIIC rangefinder camera and a 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. This Kodachrome had a film speed of Weston 8 or ASA 10. He measured light with a GE PR-1 light meter. I scanned the slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner running under Nikon Scan 4.03 software. 

Industrial Cities in Wisconsin: Janesville

 

Janesville is a city in south central Wisconsin, the county seat of Rock County. For much of the 20th century, General Motors operated a factory in Janesville, but many people remember the city as being the home of Parker Pens. Parker's excellent fountain pens were popular through much of the 20th century and sold as a prestige product internationally. Sadly, the Parker factory closed in 2009, and the current corporate owner operates a pen factory in France.

 

Railroad bridges over the Rock River near Anglers Park

(30mm ƒ/10 Kodak lens on Leica M mount)

Janesville was built on both sides of the Rock River. At one time, the river must have been lined with industries and worker housing. Many of the buildings remain, and some or most appear to be occupied. 

 

River side (rear) of apartment facing N. Main Street 

River side of N. Main Street commercial buildings

N. Main Street apartments

Main Street is on the east side of the Rock River. Many turn of the century commercial buildings are clustered between W. Court Street and W. Centerway. Parking lots show where older buildings were demolished. 

Walk uphill on St. Lawrence Avenue, and you find gracious late-1800s homes. Look at the extravagant woodwork. 

 

404 St. Lawrence Avenue

418 St. Lawrence Avenue

\

500 E. Court Street 

69 S. Atwood Avenue

Magnificent homes, but I am glad I am not responsible for their maintenance. 

This ends our short look at Janesville, Wisconsin. There is so much more to explore in that state.

I took these photographs on Fuji Acros film with my 1950 Leica IIIC camera and a 5 cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. One photo was with a 30mm Kodak lens adapted from a disposable camera. The light was soft and low contrast on this day. 

The Grand Tour 08, Finale: Kodachrome Slides from Paris and London, 1950

 

After a quick tour of Geneva, my dad took an afternoon train to Paris. 

For Americans in the mid-century, Paris represented sophistication, art, vibrancy, and culture. Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, Josephine Baker, Oscar Wilde and other American expatriates (even Benjamin Franklin) had lived in Paris and written and created there. American troops helped liberate Paris in 1944 and were heroes at that time. Paris was a glamorous destination. 

 

Oh, oh, tourist photo alert. Every visitor to Paris takes pictures of the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile. But in these 1950 shots, there is very little traffic. But the good news is that on one Sunday every month, year-round, the Champs-Élysées is for pedestrians only.

View of Paris from the Arc de Triomphe, December 1, 1950

View of la Tour Eiffel and Fame riding Pegasus at Tuileries garden gates, December 1, 1950 

Île Saint-Louis and the Seine

Notre Dame de Paris, the world’s finest example of French Gothic architecture

The stonework looks reasonably clean in this photo. Possibly the government had already started cleaning and restoring monuments after the war. 

 

Galeries Lafayette Haussmann (historic shopping galleria)

The Hôtel de Ville in the 4th arrondissement

After a week in Paris (many days with rain), my dad took the metro to the Gare du Nord and entrained on The Golden Arrow (La Flèche d'Or) for Dover. In In Graham Greene's Travels With My Aunt, one of the characters uses the Golden Arrow to escape to Paris.

 

London

 

The Household Cavalry on the Strand

At the gates of Buckingham Palace

Back to USA 

 

After six cold days in London, my dad took the boat train to Southampton and boarded the Neiuw Amsterdam on December 12. This elegant ship was built in 1938 and had served valiantly as a troopship from 1940 to 1946. He wrote that several days were rough (it was December on the North Atlantic!). My dad's last diary entry is December 17. He probably landed in Hoboken, New Jersey, a day or two later. 

I do not know why my dad took a sea voyage rather than fly to USA. The early-1950s were the peak of the post-war tourist boom for Atlantic ocean liners. In that era, ship travel was sophisticated and glamorous. But it would not last. The inauguration of Pan American's Boeing 707 jet service across the Atlantic in October 1958 spelled the eventual doom to ocean liner service. Impatient tourists wanted to cross the ocean quickly. (And you all know what a grotesque experience air travel is today, especially in economy class.)

This ended the Grand Tour from Guam to USA. My dad was energetic - I can barely imagine covering three continents and dealing with that many tourist sights, odd foods, hotels, customs clearances, and bureaucratic issues in two months. 

For funds back then, my dad and most tourists carried travelers cheques, which they exchanged into local currency. I used travelers cheques up to about 2000, some even denominated in French Francs and Deutsche Marks. But the almost universal use of credit cards largely eliminated the need for paper cheques. My dad also picked up extra cash at American Express offices, but I do not know how the transaction worked. He also picked up mail at American Express offices, which would hold letters for a traveler.   

My dad did not linger in USA. After two or three weeks, he was offered a job in Athens, Greece. He packed his bags, bought Kodachrome film, and left for Athens on Pan American World Airlines. 

 

Nieuw Amsterdam

 

Nieuw Amsterdam in 1949 after complete post-war refitting

Source: 

Collectie / Archief: Fotocollectie Anefo
Beschrijving:Vertrek Nieuw Amsterdam uit Hoek van Holland
Datum: 1949-05-31
Locatie: Hoek van Holland
Nieuw Amsterdam Fotograaf: Bilsen, Joop van / Anefo

 Photo Notes

 

This is the Leica IIIC camera and 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens that my dad used on his long trip. This Summitar is coated and has 10 aperture blades. The coating is still intact, unlike many Summitars that were scratched over the decades. 

My dad used the 1940s Kodachrome film in 35mm size. In 1945, the film speed was Weston 8 or G.E. 12. By 1953, Kodak listed the exposure index as American Standards Association (ASA) 10. At that time, Kodak sold their Kodachrome film with a processing mailer. My dad would have mailed his trip films to a Kodak laboratory (probably in Rochester) when he returned to the USA.

 

Page 42 from Kodak Data Book 5th Edition

Kodachrome Films for Minature and Movie Cameras

Gawainweaver.com prepared a comprehensive summary of Kodachrome mounts and timeline. 

 

The Grand Tour 07: Kodachrome Slides from Central Europe, 1950

 

After a week in Italy, my dad took the train to Verona and proceeded north over the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck. Before leaving for Austria, he had to check in at the office of the Allied High Command in Rome to secure the appropriate visa. Although it was five years after World War II had ended, Austria was still under joint occupation by the Western Allies and the Soviet Union.

 

Salzburg, Austria

  

Bürgerwehr fortification on the Mönchsberg mountain, Salzburg

View from the top (from Hohensalzburg Fortress)

Salzburg is such an interesting and historical town. These scenes probably do not look all that different than they do today. The Europeans manage to preserve their historical architecture and use it for day-to-day life. Compare and contrast with many ghastly American cities with their crumbling strip malls.

I traveled through Salzburg in 1979. Time to return. 

 

Vienna

 

In 1950, Vienna was still a divided city. My dad toured in the International Zone (the Innere Stadt) and possibly the US and British zones. I am sure he did not try to enter the Soviet zone, which would have been dirty and largely unrestored.  

Watch the superb film noir movie, The Third Man, directed by Carol Reed, to get the flavor of 1949 Vienna. It covers some of the issues of a divided city. Even better, read the novel by Graham Green.

 

Johann Wolfgang von Goethe outside the Burggarten Gate along Goethegasse

Goethe (1749–1832) was one of Germany's most influential writers and poet (as well as being a geologist). His masterpiece is the drama, Faust. I started to read an English translation but did not get too far. It may be easier to get the flavor of the story by watching a performance of Faust, Charles Gounod's superb grand opera in five acts. 

 

The Votivkirche on the Ringstraße 

The church was badly damaged in the war, but I do not know if this picture shows it after or before renovations.

 

The Wiener Staatsoper with wartime damage still being repaired

This is one of the most active performance houses in the world, with opera, concerts, dance and other functions every day of the week. I remember seeing Tristan und Isolde in 1979 with a student ticket -  I stood in the top balcony for over four hours.

 

Jungfrau, Switzerland 

  

Helping with maintenance on the Jungfraujoch (elev. 3454 metres)

 Zurich, Switzerland

 

In the November sun, Zurich

Zurich

Zurich is in north-central Switzerland. If you have flown to or through Switzerland, there is a good chance your flight passed through Flughafen Zürich (ZRH). This was my dad's last stop in Switzerland before taking the train to Paris. 

 

TWA Lockheed Constellation, Genève Aéroport, August 1952

This 1952 picture is from a later trip to Genève, but I could not resist showing it here. This is a Trans World Airlines Lockheed Super Constellation L-1049. TWA had just introduced it to their transatlantic service, and this would have been one of the early stops in Switzerland. The flight would have required refueling in Goose Bay and Gander en route.

I scanned these Kodachrome slides with a Nikon CoolScan 5000ED film scanner. I adjusted the color of some frames with Photoshop Elements 2024 and manually cleaned some scratches with the heal tool in Photoshop CS6. There is no Ai manipulation or "restoration" of these pictures. They were taken by a real human with a Leica camera.

 

 

The Grand Tour 06: Kodachrome Slides from Campania, Venice, and Rome, 1950

 

Continuing his long 1950 voyage back to the USA, my dad took a steamer from Alexandria, Egypt, to Genoa, Italy, with a stopover in Syracusa. He wrote in his diary it was a rough crossing, with many passengers seasick. After disembarking, he took a bus tour along the coast and to Pompeii. The following day, he entrained to Rome. 

 

 Syracuse, Sicily

 

The famous amphitheater was excavated from the limestone in the early Imperial Era (approx. 100 BC).  The superstructure is gone. 

 

Amalfi Coast, Campania

 

The famous Amalfi Coast, at the southern edge of the Sorrentine Peninsula in Campania, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This view is from the town of Ravello looking south towards Minori and Maiori. The spectacular coast is now horrendously over-touristed.

 

Rome

 

The Arch of Septimius Severus (203 AD), Roman Forum

The Roman Forum - where are all the tourists? (October 27, 1950)

Piazza della Rotondo (Pantheon). The Albergo del Sole is now a boutique hotel.

 

Venice

 

After a few days in Rome, my dad took the train to Venice. He noted that the car was unheated and he had to wear his topcoat in the compartment. Fortunately, Venice was sunny and warmer.

 

View from the top, Piazza San Marco from St Mark's Campanile

Piazza San Marco, November 1 or 2, 1950

Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront

Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal (Nov. 1, 1950). Where are all the tourists?

Venice really is a fantastic destination. The Rialto bridge and the nearby market area is most interesting. I have not been to Venice since 2013 - much too long. By all means, make it a life goal to see the islands, canals, architecture, and the opera - but go off season. Just do it.

Rialto Bridge in 2013 with a few more people (digital file)

  

After a few days in Venice, my dad took the train to Verona and changed to a train heading to Innsbruck via the Brenner Pass. 

My dad took the 1950 photographs on Kodachrome film with his Leica IIIC camera and a 5 cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. I scanned the slides with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner run by NikonScan 4.03 software. On some frames, I corrected color casts with the color correction tool in Photoshop Elements 2024. It is surprisingly effective. 

 Next: central Europe.