From the Archives: a Few from the Great Lakes

 

In a previous life, I regularly traveled to the states that adjoin Lakes Michigan, Superior, and Erie. I can't begin to count the trips to Illinois, Michigan, Pennsylvania, New York, and Ohio to conduit surveys, attend conferences, and meet coworkers. Here are a few memories of those trips a long time ago (when you are as old as I am, many memories are of events a long long time ago....).

 

North Central Ohio  

 

I landed in Cleveland Hopkins International Airport and rented a car. Heading north on W 220th Street, I came across a Chevrolet Corvair repair shop! It was owned by the legendary Jim Battenhouse (Dr. Corvair). What a treat to see some clean Corvairs again. Some of you old-timers may remember Unsafe at Any Speed: The Designed-In Dangers of the American Automobile by Ralph Nader. In the first chapter, Nader attacked the Corvair as a "one-car accident" because of its rear-engine, swing-axle suspension. Sales of the innovative Corvair plummeted, and, starting in 1964, the more traditional Ford Mustang totally outsold the Chevrolet product. (These photos: Fuji Super HQ 100 film, Olympus OM2S camera).

 

Green Derby, Rte 2, Benton Township, Ohio

I am unable to find this location. The restaurant probably closed years ago. 

Benton Harbor, Michigan

 

Wet departure from Kalamazoo/Battle Creek International Airport, November 1993

Time for food, Benton Harbor

Roxy Hot Wings, 287 East Main Street, Benton Harbor

(Kodachrome film, Leica M3 camera, 50mm lens)   

One of my early projects was a sediment study at St. Joseph, Michigan, on the east shore of Lake Michigan. Benton Harbor, just across the St. Joseph River, was very rust belt back in the 1990s. I wish I had more time to explore. 

 

Friend and coworker, Mr. Charlie Johnson

(Kodak Gold 100 film, Canon Rebel camera) 

Charlie was known as Mr. Great Lakes. He had an encyclopedic knowledge of every harbor, every beach, the source of its sediment, and where it was going. He always willingly shared his expertise.

Presque Isle and Erie, Pennsylvania

Presque Isle is an arch-shaped sand peninsula that juts into Lake Erie near Erie, Pennsylvania, and encloses Presque Isle Bay. The peninsula is a state park and is forested, indicating its geologic stability for at least a few hundred years. The US Army Corps of Engineers built detached breakwaters and added beach fill along the west side of Presque Isle. The east side is open to Lake Erie and gives access to the waterfront and commercial harbor of Erie, Pennsylvania. One of the first civilian projects of the US Army Corps of Engineers was to build jetties and protect the entrance to Erie harbor, as authorized by the Rivers & Harbors Act of 1824 (yes, over 200 years ago). 

 

Erie Harbor north pier (September 1999)

 

The historic wrought iron and steel Presque Isle North Pier light was forged in France and assembled on the site in 1858. It was moved to different locations on the jetty in 1882 and 1940.  

  

 

Houseboats on Presque Isle Bay

Presque Isle is a stopover for migrating birds. One day, I met a ranger who was releasing some ducks that had entered a trap. He said the plan to check tags on the ducks was not providing new population data. The ducks learned that there was good food in the trap that did not require much work to enjoy. They entered the trap, waited for the kindly ranger to release them, and returned the next day for another easy lunch. 

Rats, raccoons, skunks, mice, and karate

Health food (exact location not recorded)

 (Fuji Super HQ 100 film, Olympus OM2S camera)

Melody Deli, 1402 East Lake Road, Erie

 

In the 1990s, Erie was a bit rough, an old time industrial city that had fallen on hard times. I do not know if it has revived in the last quarter century. In the 1990s, there were many interesting local business and stores throughout the city.

 

Toledo, Ohio 

 

My daughter and I explored Luna Pier and some of the shore along the very west end of Lake Erie. I was on my way to Cleveland to attend a conference, so she took me to Toledo to pick up the MegaBus. We looked at a map and saw that the stop was adjacent to Southwyck Mall. OK, no problem. But when we reached our destination, we saw that the mall was being actively squashed and demolished. One of the former stores was Montgomery Ward (also known as Monkey Ward). 

The MegaBus ride to Cleveland was efficient and quiet, but the company no longer serves Toledo. Why didn't I take the Amtrak?

 

Waiting for Monkey Ward to open, Southwyck Mall, July 20, 2009 

(Olympus E-330 digital file)

 

 

Cleveland, Ohio 

   

Wow, nice hotel room in Cleveland!

Cuyahoga River, Cleveland

This amazing railroad bascule bridge is the former Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Bridge 463 at the end of Sycamore Street. The railroad built it in 1957 when the Cuyahoga river was widened. There are no tracks leading to it any more, and the bridge remains as a monument to mid-century engineering. I am always impressed at some of the engineering and construction that the railroad companies accomplished in the 20th century. 

 

On the Waterfront, Cleveland

We had a reception at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, the modern building on the left in the photo above. What a treat to have a private evening there. 

This ends a too-short tour of some Great Lakes towns. I have not been back to the Lakes for at least a decade. Time to return!

I took these pictures with various cameras and film types. I scanned the slides or negatives on a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner, operated by NikonScan 4.03 software running under Windows 7. The 2009 frames are from my Olympus E-330, a very competent 4/3 format (not micro 4/3) camera with excellent lenses.

Amazing masonry: City Hall, Philadelphia

Philadelphia went through a rough time from the mid-1960s through the 1980s (I am not singling out Philadelphia; many American cities were pretty grim during that period). But today, downtown Philadelphia is reasonably clean, interesting, and fun to visit. It shows what can happen when a municipality does not allow urban decay to set in and take over.

The centerpiece of downtown is the monumental Empire-style City Hall, which occupies an entire block in the center of the city. According to Wikipedia, the building and was constructed from 1871 until 1901 at a cost of $24 million. It was designed by Scottish-born architect John McArthur, Jr. in the ornate Second Empire style. With almost 700 rooms, it is the largest municipal building in the United States and possibly one of the largest in the world.

This is a circa. 1899 photograph from the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Washington, D.C. (online here).




Here is some of the architectural detail and statuary. The latter two photographs I took from my room in the Marriott Courtyard Philadelphia Downtown hotel. It would be hard to find a more convenient location.



The tower is quite an edifice, but unfortunately its impressive size is somewhat diminished by the tall office buildings nearby. The antenna spire is 548 ft up, and Wikipedia claims that from 1901 to 1908, this was the tallest habitable building in the world (the distinction is in contrast to religious buildings like cathedrals and monuments like the Eiffel tower). William Penn is on the top, and he is 11-m tall and faces northeast.

According to the Wikipedia article, in the 1950s, city fathers considered demolishing the city hall, but the cost would have been too high. I do not doubt this story; the 1950s may have been the low period in the American consciousness pertaining to historical preservation. Recall this was the era when the so-called "modern" interstates were slashed across cities, often chopping up historic ethnic neighborhoods. Suburbia and white flight reigned supreme during this period, and inner cities were left to deteriorate and fester. See Building Suburbia, Green Fields and Urban Growth, 1820-2000 by Dolores Hayden for more details of the suburban flight and its consequences to American cities. Philadelphia's revived downtown shows that many people are finally returning to traditional cities, although the McMansion orgy of the 1990s-mid-2000s demonstrates a recent and gross extreme of the suburban flight trend.

Many other historical building around City Hall have been restored. Good for Philadelphia!

Even the streets have some interesting architectural elements.

This is the view east towards the Delaware River. The S.S. United States is moored at Pier 84 (the red funnels are barely visible in the photograph to the right).

This is the Capogiro Gelato & Sorbetto shop. It has some of the best gelato I have ever savored. Late evenings in summer, it is mobbed with students, businessmen, tourists, and local residents. I spoke to the owner one evening, and he said he toured dairy farms in Lancaster County to look for happy cows (in a similar way, that is why milk and butter is so good in France and Switzerland - the cows are happy).

Photographs taken with a Fujifilm F31fd digital compact camera.

Great Eating at Reading Terminal Market, Philadelphia

When you visit Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, the Reading Terminal Market should be on your obligatory visit list. You can find almost anything to eat there! The Market occupies the ground floor and basement levels of the Reading Railroad's former train shed and terminal, which was built up above the street level. The railroad part of the terminal was abandoned for many years, but the city revived the amazing shed and converted it into a convention center in the 1990s. Nice work!, especially in light of how many similar engineering monuments were destroyed in other cities in the mid-late 20th century during greedy and misguided disasters of urban renewal.  One infamous example: New York's Pennsylvania Station was demolished to build the cheesy Madison Square Garden.

According to an interesting article in Wikipedia, the Market was one of the first in the USA to include a state-of-the-art refrigerated storage area in the basement. The refrigeration system used brine water and ammonia operated by specially designed pumps, compressors, and other equipment.


This is the convention center and example of the amazing steel truss system that holds up the roof. Thirteen tracks once occupied this area, which now has a marble floor.

From the street level, the market dies not look like much, but the inside contains the emporium of gastronomic excellence and calorific excess. Readers of this blog know I love farmer's markets in all their varieties (Athens, Kathmandu).





The tradition of the farmers' market lives on! Peppers, cherries, corn - whatever you need. (The colors are a bit off because I did not have time to adjust a custom white balance.)

If you want some fish or meat, you can select as much as you want.


This is a cheese-lovers emporium.

Coffee-flavored soda?


Sandwich spreads of mysterious ingredients or buffalo eggs? Come and get them.

I prefer the olive oil varieties.

These are the bee wax products.

Finally, everyone's favorite: the chocolates.




Really, most people come here to eat and socialize and achieve calorie input.

Finally, at night, the crowds are gone and the market cleans up.

Photographs: 2008: Fuji F31fd digital camera. 2012: Panasonic G1 digital camera with color adjustments made in Silkypix Developer Studio 3.0 SE.