Near the Top of Asia: the Kingdom of Lo (Part 3; Mustang Trek North)

For most of us westerners, the Kingdom of Lo, now known as Upper Mustang, is about as far off the tourist path as you can go (although this is changing rapidly with road construction). Mustang is a district in northern Nepal, bordering Tibet. As of 2011, you needed to secure special permits to enter the area. The government of Nepal was trying to prevent uncontrolled over-tourism, especially considering that the infrastructure was primitive for tourists and food supplies were already limited for the local Nepalis, let alone for tourists, who eat vastly more. 

This is Part 3 of a 6-part series covering of my 2011 trek into the heart of Mustang. I hiked with a group of Americans plus two Austrians. Vidya Hirachan of Mustang Trails, Trekking & Expeditions (in Kathmandu) organized the logistics and transportation for the group.

1. A short 2011 article shows waypoints along the route.
2. I wrote about the town of Kagbeni in 2017. Kagbeni is the gateway to Mustang, where foreigners need to show permits before they can continue north into Upper Mustang. 

In this article, I will show scenery and towns along the route north. You can follow the towns on an excellent map posted by MagicalNepal. Part 4 will cover the approach to Lo Manthang, the capital of Mustang. Part 5 will cover Lo Manthang, where we had a short audience with the King (no, not Elvis).

Chele (3060 m)

Kali Gandaki (river) near Chele, Mustang, Nepal

From Jomson to Chele, the main trail follows the alluvial valley of the Kali Gandaki. The Himalaya are young mountains and still rising as a result of plate tectonics. Therefore, streams and rivers carry a tremendous sediment load of gravel, cobble, and sand. The trail usually follows the east bank of the river bed but drops down onto the gravel bed in some places. I am not sure how people traverse the route when the water is high.

Just below the town of Chele, the trail crossed the river on a modern steel bridge. In the past, a temporary bridge was probably washed out every spring. International aide organizations have been building bridges like this all through Nepal, and now villagers can cross dangerous rivers even in winter. These bridges are strong enough for motorbikes and yaks.

Chele is the third town north of Kagbeni. I do not remember the other two towns or if they offered tourist accommodations. 

The neat rows of dry sticks along the roof edges are a traditional demonstration of prosperity. I do not know if the wood is ever burned; I recall someone telling me it is left for display.

The local youngsters practice cricket. They run around with ease, unlike us tourists, who were puffing in the thin air.

We spent a comfortable night bundled up in our sleeping bags. We brought our own coffee, so we were fortified in the morning.

Samar (3660 m)

The trail ascended steeply out of Chele. The horses are amazingly sure-footed, more-so than us!

Samar from below town

Hotel Annapurna Restaurant & Bar - comfortable and clean

We spent a comfortable night in the Annapurna Restaurant & Bar. On this trip, we did not have our own cook staff or food supplies, so we ate what was available in the guest houses. On the first few days of the trip, the temperature was so high, Dr. Don (our cultural coordinator) reluctantly let us wear shorts. Times are changing, and none of the local folks seemed to care or be upset.

Bhena La (pass, 3835 m)

Carina protected from the sun and wind, Bhena La, 3835 m elevation.

From the town of Samar up to the Bhena La was a stiff uphill walk. Compared to the days along the the Kali Gandaki river bed, it was windy and cold here at 3800m. Every pass has prayer flags strung from the spires of the chörten or gompa.

Syangbochen (3800 m)

The porters and horse men spent long evenings gambling

Saddling and loading in the morning.

Syangbochen was another small town (5 houses?) and a teahouse, where we spent an overnight. It was cold at night but we had our down sleeping bags. Dinner was the typical and very good Dal Bhat (lentils, rice, and vegetables). The horse tenders were up early to prepare the loads. Two horses were on reserve with saddles in case someone in our group was tired and needed a ride. But only a couple of my fellow travelers ever needed the ride.

Chhunggar (3889 m)

All the main mountain passes are protected with a chörten. Chörten (Tibetan) or Stupa (Nepali) means heap, but in reality, they are carefully crafted stone towers made by skilled stone masons. The two circles are Buddha's eyes, and he faces all four directions. You are supposed to pass to the left side of the structure, meaning clockwise looking down. 

Jhaite (3817 m)

Jhaite (or Zhaite), 3817 m

Jhaite was a nice little town with some stands of trees and a well-decorated chorten at the town entrance. We had bypassed the town of Geling, which has a 15th century monastery.

Ghami (3520 m)

Village of Ghami

After a long day, we were very glad to see Ghami. 

The villagers were preparing for winter. The winter is cold and brutal here, and drinking water may be a problem. Some villagers stay all winter, but many walk south to take temporary jobs in the Kathmandu valley or in India. I do not know if the children go south to lower-elevation towns to attend school. 

Cattle or livestock feed for the winter

Chörten in Ghami

Ghami was quite a maze of passages, tunnels, and narrow alleys among ancient buildings. Like some of the other Mustang towns, Ghami had been an important stopover during the salt trade. The salt trade largely shut down during the middle of the 20th century when factories began to manufacture salt containing iodine. 

We stayed in another comfortable guesthouse, but I have forgotten the name. I remember the night was cold. 

This ends this phase of the trek northward into Mustang. To be continued.

These are all digital files from as Panasonic G-1 micro four thirds (µ4/3) camera.