Kaiser Mahal and Kaiser's Library, Kathmandu (Nepal 2017-07)

The Ranas (former Nepali leaders) built a number of extravagant palaces in Kathmandu. Many are now being used as government ministries, while others were damaged in the 2015 earthquake and are closed. But there is some good news. The Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Restoration, funded by the United States, has provided a grant for conservation and restoration of the south wing of Kaiser Mahal. I think this is the section that includes the library but am not sure.

When my friends and I visited the Garden of Dreams in October of 2017, the Kaiser Mahal was a hulking building of brickwork and plaster with only a small section open as a photograph gallery. But looking over a brick wall, we saw the palace east entrance, a dilapidated garden, deserted cars, and junk. Ah ha, urban decay on a grand scale.

Surprisingly, we could walk around the corner to Kanti Path (street) and walk through an unguarded brick entrance. A couple of cooks were cleaning dishes at a tap. And there was the palace, looking quite forlorn. The Department of Education formerly used the building but has now moved.

The architecture is a combination of neoclassical European with Oriental influence. Everything was locked, so we left.

Two weeks later, I returned by myself to Kanti Path. This time, the grounds were bustling, with parked scooters and cars and people milling around. And the Kaiser Library was open! I signed in and walked around. The collection looked like a repository of early 20th century Indian-printed volumes: Birds of the Indian Garden, or Sport on HRM's Royal Tour of India and Burma (= shoot many tigers from the back of elephants), or Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet (the amazing story of Sarat Chandra Das, a school teacher turned explorer and spy). The books were damp. The library desperately needs climate control.

A barrier prevented me from going upstairs, but I saw a group with an English-speaking gent go up the stairs and examine the collections and some oil paintings. Dr. Messerschmidt, an anthropologist, told me that many volumes have been stolen because of lax security.

Some background to the library: According to an article in Wikipedia, Kaiser Shumsher Jang Bahadur Rana was an avid book collector. Kaiser visited England with his father early in the 20th century. "He was very much impressed by the government of England, as well as by the library system and the proper management of books there." He brought home many books, and back in Kathmandu, he established a library in the palace. Eventually, he acquired thousands of volumes. At first, the library was open only to family members and special visitors, but he bequeathed the collection to the nation upon his death in 1964. The good news is the library is still open to students and the public, there is staff during opening hours, and there is functioning electricity. Let's hope this cultural treasure can be preserved.

I took the black and white photographs with a Leica IIIC rangefinder camera and a 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens. The color library photographs are from a compact Yashica Electro 35CC camera with 35mm ƒ/1.8 lens using Fuji 200 film. The camera's shutter is electronically timed, so I placed it on shelves, set the self-timer, and let the shutter stay open as long as needed (many seconds); very convenient. The film came from a shop in the Thamel area of town.

Fantasy in Kathmandu: the Garden of Dreams (Nepal 2017-06)

From brochure provided at Garden of Dreams ticket office.

Kathmandu has some unique historical sites. Just off the noisy and polluted Tridevi Sadak, you pass through a nondescript gate in a dusty brick wall, buy a ticket, and step into an oasis of quiet, green, and splashing water. Even more odd, the pavilions are neo classical, with Greek columns, Sphinx statues, and plaques showing stanzas from Omar Khayyam. The garden was built next to the Kaiser Mahal (palace) in the early 1920s. Sir Kaiser Shumsher Jang Bahadur Rana (1892 – 1964) was one of the Shamsher Ranas, the dictators/strongmen who ruled Nepal with iron fists for over a century until 1951. Within the walls, Kaiser Shumsher Rana created an ensemble of pavilions, fountains, and European elements like verandas, pergolas, balustrades, urns, and birdhouses.

Kaiser Rana was an odd one. He admired Adolph Hitler, and the Fuhrer sent him an automobile (carried over the mountains by porters). He so admired Jawaharial Nehru, when Nehru died in 1964, Kaiser wilted away and died a few weeks later. He loved books, and I will cover his famous library in another post.

The Ranas built a number of these fantasy gardens in the early part of the 20th century, but I do not know if others have survived or are open to the public. After Kaiser's death, the Garden was handed over to the Government of Nepal, after which it was neglected and vandalized for decades. The Austrian government donated funds for the restoration and replanting of rare trees and plants. The Garden of Dreams is popular with young Nepalis, partly because they are free from parental oversight for a few unchaperoned hours.

These cheerful youngsters cheerfully acquiesced to my taking their portraits (film photographs from a Leica IIIC camera and 5cm ƒ/2 Summitar lens).

Some observations:

• Coffee aroma from Himalayan Java next door.
• Everyone takes selfies
• Everyone has a phone
• Young Nepalis sitting on the grass with their Macs
• Young couple in a corner kissing
• Young lady on a bench with her head on her gentleman's lap while he popped pimples on her cheek

After a couple of hours in the Garden, my friends and I walked next door to have some Himalayan Java and chocolate torte. Pastries are a well-appreciated culinary specialty in Kathmandu.