Cycling the Hudson Valley - Hudson to Carmel (Days 2 and 3)

Day 2, Kinderhook (Aug. 6, 2025)

 

From Hudson, we headed south on the east side of the Hudson River. Part of the way was on country roads inland of the Rhinebeck-Hudson Road. Our route took us through the campus of Bard College (no time to stop and visit the museum).

 

Annandale Road, Red Hook, south of Bard College

We crossed the Hudson River heading west on the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge. The bridge had a separated bicycle lane, but the cars rush by just beyond the Jersey barriers, so the crossing is noisy. We were way above the river. 

 

Kingston

 

When we reached the west side of the Hudson, we turned south and biked through historic Kingston. 

 

Hutton Brickyards, Sojourner Truth State Park, Kingston

Typical Kingston house, John Street 

New Paltz

 

Proceeding south from Kingston, we stayed at the Ulster County fair grounds. Ahh, plenty of porta-potties. 

 Day 3, Walkway Over the Hudson

 

The Walkway Over the Hudson is an amazing bicycle and walking path. Look down at the river - it is way down! Formerly the 1889 Poughkeepsie–Highland Railroad Bridge, it is now longest elevated pedestrian bridge in the world. This remarkable steel cantilever bridge crosses the Hudson River between Poughkeepsie and Highland, New York. What a treasure to preserve and convert into a pedestrian bridge.

 

 

Poughkeepsie

 

The eastern approaches to the Walkway Over the Hudson bridge carry you way above the older parts of Poughkeepsie. It feels like you are on a drone hovering over the city. Look south, and you can see the Franklin D. Roosevelt Mid-Hudson Bridge. I drove across it decades ago but do not remember any details. 

 

Franklin D. Roosevelt Mid-Hudson Bridge, begun in 1925 and completed in 1930

 

From the bridge, you look down onto some historic Poughkeepsie neighborhoods. I wonder if residents ever look up at the people above peering down at them? 

 

Oh, boy, ice cream. Oops, not today.

 

From Poughkeepsie, we rode the Dutchess Rail Trail, the Maybrook Trailway, and finally the Putnam Trailway into the town of Carmel. New York has certainly done a remarkable job of converting old rail lines into bicycle trails. This was a hard day.  

Dear Readers, you know where this is going. What do you do after a tough day and 60 miles? You go eat Greek food! Yes, there are Greeks in Carmel Hamlet, and they run a fabulous restaurant (The Greek Place, 3 Fair Street, Carmel). They came from a suburb of Athens near where my family lives. 

 

Bicycling food

More bicycling food

I took the film pictures with a Canonet GIII QL17 camera with a 40mm ƒ/1.7 Canon lens. The Greek food are digital files from a Samsung mobile phone. 

 

 

Cycling the Hudson Valley of New York - Troy to Hudson (Day 1)

Parks and Trails of New York (PTNY) sponsors the Cycle the Hudson Valley bicycling tour every year. The route follows the Empire State Trail, which consists mostly of former railroad lines that have been converted into multi-use trails. In towns, the trail sometimes follows local roads. My friend from Valatie suggested we do the ride, and I jumped to the chance. 

I biked for practice in the Olympia area, shipped my bicycle via BikeFlights to a bicycle store in Valatie, and flew to Albany.

We followed the Empire State Trail from the beginning of our tour (August 5, 2025) in Troy to the end along the west side of Manhattan and across the bridge to Brooklyn. The pictures here and the following articles will run from north to south following the ride. Here is Day 1, Troy to Hudson.

(Note, before the ride, my bicycle companions and I explored the charming town of Valatie and environs (click the link). And after the ride, we explored a historic neighborhood in downtown Albany)  

Troy, New York

Ready to roll at Hudson Valley Community College, Troy, NY

6 High Street, Troy

We camped overnight at the Hudson Valley Community College in Troy and left early. About 250 riders biked down High Street and crossed the Hudson River. There was no time to look around (a common theme when you are covering 50+ miles each day), but I saw some venerable houses on High Street.

Clinton Park

Wow, bright paint. My Valatie friend said this restaurant had moved to a new location. 

Nassau and Nassau Lake

After crossing the Hudson River back to the east side, we rode on the Albany-Hudson Electric Trail, a former electric trolley line. This was a hilly section. 

Watch bunnies and a Little Library, Nassau

Carpentry shop

The welcome rest stop!

Kinderhook

We pushed through the historic town of Kinderhook without stopping. The park had games on the ball fields with children enjoying the outdoors.

Village Playground, Kinderhook

Hudson

Hudson is a historic city in Columbia County. It has become quite sophisticated with hotels, restaurants, and coffee shops. My friend told me that following Covid and the transition to remote work, many professionals from New York City have bought homes in historic towns up the Hudson Valley. They can work remotely but easily take the train to the City as needed. Cities like Hudson have seen investment and gentrification.

Not yet restored, 281 Hudson Ave.

Missing a porch? Front Street

Townhouses on Warren Street

Warren Street

Hudson Youth Center

We stayed at a community college near Hudson and took a bus into town to find restaurants. It was a beautiful evening.

Zowie, serious fisherman's soup!!! (I like Hudson....)

This ends a tiring day no. 1 on the trail. But as long as I could eat like this, I was ready for the miles. To be continued....

I took most of these pictures on August 5, 2025, on Kodak Portra 160 film with my Canon Canonet GIII QL17 compact camera. It has an excellent 40mm ƒ/1.7 lens. To power the Canonet's CDS meter, I used a Wein Cell, which produces the same 1.35 volts as the original mercury batteries. I carried the camera in a small bag mounted in front of my handlebars. 

Small Towns in New York's Hudson Valley: Valatie (Cycle 01)

My good friend and former coworker lives in Valtie, New York. He suggested we participate on the Cycle the Hudson Valley 5-day bike tour along the Empire State Trail from Troy to New York City. That sounded fantastic! After some training, I shipped one of my bicycles to Valatie, booked a flight to Albany, and joined him in mid-August (2025). 

Valatie is a village a short distance southeast of Albany in Columbia County. This is classic rural upstate New York, near the home of President Martin Van Buren and near the setting of Washington Irving's popular short story, The Legend of Sleepy Hollow. This is beautiful country, with rolling hills, hollows, winding roads, farms, traditional barns, and forest. 

Here are some scenes in and near Valatie (no bicycling yet)

Shop local, drink coffee local

Fred and Peter patiently waiting for me to take some pictures

Beaver Mill Falls, Kinderhook River

Harry Houdini filmed scenes from Haldane of the Secret Service on the waterfall. 

Barn (or house?), 2098 River Road (Hwy. 9J), Schodack Landing

Old house with partial asphalt shingles, 601 River Road (Hwy 9J), Schodack

Note how the original (or at least old) wood clapboards are now exposed on the front. But at some stage in its history, this house was clad with asphalt shingles. We think of them as a cover for low-grade housing, but in reality, they are durable, colorfast, moisture-proof, and resist bugs.

Barn on County Rte 2, Schodack, NY

Stuyvesant Landing Depot, Stuyvesant, built in 1880

Former State Farm for Women Prisoners

We drove on State Farm Road and came across several derelect multi-floor buildings. My friend said the county had used it for office space, but he did know its original use. To me, they had the appearance of early-20th century hospitals or asylums. With some searching, I found a reference that these buildings were intended to be the State Farm for Women Misdemeanants. More detail is in the appendix below.

I took these photographs on Kodak Portra 160 film with a Canonet GIII QL17 camera. It has a superb 40mm ƒ/1.7 fully coated lens. Northeast Photographic in Bath, Maine, processed the film, and I scanned it with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED film scanner.

Appendix: History of the State Farm

 

From the New York History of Medicine and Public Health:

By 1908, the Women’s Prison Association had successfully lobbied for 315 public acres for such a place, the State Farm for Women Misdemeanants, in Valatie, New York.8 The site was planned in accordance with the early 20th-century trend of cottage-designed prisons, which placed inmates in small cottages scattered across a rural setting. The cottages were set up like small homes, with a dining room, kitchen, and sitting room. Household tasks were divided among the women. The idea was to engender self-esteem in the inmates, who then might be better positioned to take on these roles once released.9

“Cottage on State Farm for Women.” In “The Modern Way,” 1913, page 14.

Bordered by the foothills of the Adirondacks, the Berkshires, the Matteawan Mountains, and the Catskills and Helderbergs, State Farm in Valatie offered tillable land, ample space, and a healthy environment. At completion, the farm was projected to have 27 buildings on the cottage plan, and would stress rehabilitation and careful supervision by an all-female staff (except for typically male roles, i.e. leadership roles like warden). Prisoners over 30 who had been convicted five times in two years qualified for accommodation.10

“Inmates’ Room, State Farm for Women.” In “The Modern Way,” 1913, page 17.

When “The Modern Way” went to print, two cottages were ready for occupancy. Fifteen hundred New York women were eligible. According to the pamphlet’s writers, every farm implement had been purchased, and the grounds were populated with horses, cattle, and poultry.11 And yet, the pamphlet’s frustrated authors argued, the land remained vacant. Appeals to two different governors and the Senate Finance Committee to fund the opening of the cottages all stalled.12 At the close of “The Modern Way” we are left wondering what happened to State Farm. Was it ever operational?

“Cattle on State Farm for Women.” In “The Modern Way,” 1913, page 20.

The answer was yes. State Farm at Valatie was completed in 1914. But in total, the Columbia County facility accommodated only 146 inmates. These were mostly white women between the ages of 30 and 60, accused of public drunkenness. Funding was always scarce. By 1918, all the inmates had been paroled, and the grounds were turned over to a treatment center for women suffering from venereal disease.13 The efforts of the Women’s Prisoners’ Association to install State Farm as a viable alternative to the Workhouse model appears to have been only successful in the short term. Nevertheless, “The Modern Way” captures an important moment in the history of the Women’s Prison Association of New York, an organization still very active in lobbying for the rights of women prisoners today.

Traditional Neighborhood: Central Avenue, Albany, New York (Tri-X film)

Albany, New York, is the capital of New York State. The city has a rich 300-year history of government, arts, and commerce. The Central Avenue neighborhood is an area of traditional early-20th century town homes, shops, and small apartments. According to the Central Avenue web page, 

"This isn’t your typical main street and that’s exactly the point. Central Avenue is where authenticity thrives and Albany’s creative pulse beats strongest. It’s home to rising artists, bold thinkers, small business pioneers, and innovators shaping what’s next."

This was all new to me because I had only once before been to Albany (after I completed the Erie Canal bike tour). 

My bicycling friend and I had just completed the Cycle the Hudson Valley ride. We joined family member for lunch at a restaurant on Central Avenue. While they lingered after lunch, I wandered around and took photos of the houses and stores. 

Central Avenue

198 Central Avenue

Fresh Bites Deli, 199 Central Avenue

Bob's Appliances, 224 Central Avenue

Robin Street and Sherman Streets

 

Standing alone, 217 Sherman Street

200 block of Sherman Street

201 Sherman Street

Note the asphalt shingles on the side of the house on the left. Decades ago, many of these buildings may have been re-shingled this way.

Robin Street

Memorial, Robin Street

Apartment, 351 Elk Stree

Houses, 421 Sheridan Avenue

201 Sherman Street

Lark Street

Row townhouses, 105 Lark Street

Townhouses, Lark Street

These handsome townhouses date from the 1880s and 1890s and form part of Albany's historic core. The area has been revitalized and gentrified over the last 20+ years. Lark Street has evolved into a prominent center for Albany's LGBTQ+ community.

This ends our short walk around historic Central Avenue. I took these photos in August 2025 on Kodak Tri-X film using my Canon Canonet GIII QL17 camera with its 40mm ƒ/1.4 lens. The negatives were very contrasty, and I had to reduce the contrast with the curve tool using Photoshop CS6. For some frames, I corrected converging vertical lines with Photoshop. This would be the place to use a shift lens on an interchangeable lens camera. Unfortunately, I did not have any yellow or orange filters with me to add some tone to the featureless sky.