ΔHMOKPATIA - 50 Years Later (a Post for Independence Day in USA)

In 2024, Greece marked the 50 year anniversary of the Metapolitefsi period, the regime change when the nation restored democratic government after the ignoble collapse of the seven year military dictatorship. The dictatorship was a brutal period for Greece. The Colonels repressed newspapers, killed university students, and banned political parties. Readers may wonder why I am bringing up this subject. In years to come, restoring honest democracy will be a critical political issue for the USA considering this administration's:

• abrupt turn to autocracy;
• Kakistocracy*;
• the attempt to destroy knowledge;
• purging of history;
• attempting to supplant artistic endeavors in favor of censorship and propaganda;
• and gross kleptocracy. 

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* "Kakistocracy (/ˌkækɪˈstɒkrəsi/ KAK-ist-OK-rə-see) is government by the worst, least qualified, or most unscrupulous people" (from Wikipedia) As usual, the Greeks had a term for incompetent and corrupt governance. But they may have never envisioned what we see in USA in 2025.

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To honor the 50-year anniversary of the restoration of democracy in Greece, the National Gallery Alexandros Soutsos Museum in Athens mounted a collection of works by international artists who faced similar repression, hopes, and challenges. "We experience the liberating force unleashed on the collective body by the demand for democratic rights and investigate how the trauma of dictatorship was handled in the visual arts." (Text by Syrago Tsiara, Director / Exhibition Curator)

The following figures are some pages from the exhibit catalog.

Murdering Freedom

 

When will we face the enemy here in USA? Will we be brave enough put the corrupt on trial and honest enough to establish a Truth and Reconciliation Commission? In five or ten decades, will museums host works by American artists who spoke out?

On the Waterfront - Chalcis, Greece (Nov. 2024)

Euripus Strait, Chalcis, with lift bridge linking Euboea to the mainland

Chalcis (also called Chalkida or Halkida) is an ancient city on the Evrípou Strait, which separates mainland Greece from the island of Euboea (Evia). The weather in late November was still sunny and warm, so we thought, "Let's go to Chalcis, look around, and eat by the sea." A typical Greek outing. 

An unusual phenomena of the Evrípou is an irregular tidal current, which changes direction six to seven times a day.

Ice cream time

Nap time

The municipality has cleaned up the waterfront and added benches and recreation areas. 

This is a cheerful waterfront on a sunny day. Summer will be much more busy.

Santa checking out Ice Cream Man

They still sell Fanta in Greece?

Oh oh, getting the Evil Eye next to the Citroen 2CV (Samsung phone digital file)

 Dear Reader, you know what comes next: LUNCH in Nea Lampsakos, a few km south of Chalcis.

It does not get much better than this. And, of course, this is followed with a Greek coffee and a baklava. Ahhh.... (but no nap??)

This ends our November 2024 visit to Greece. I hope you enjoyed the short tour. 

More Wandering around Athens (Nov. 2024)

We continue wandering through Athens. I never lose interest here. 

Uncontrolled late-20th century urban sprawl, northwest Athens. Mount Parnitha is in the distance. (Samsung phone digital frame)

Parts of Athens are a congested concrete jungle. City fathers failed grossly to not impose green space requirements, build parks, or lay out arterial highways after World War II. In the scene above, the land in the foreground had disputed ownership for over five decades but will be preserved as park land.

Scooters on Asklipiou Street, near the Politeia bookstore (21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss ZM lens)

The Politeia bookstore has a good selection of books in many languages. In the past, we shopped at the famous Eleftheroudakis bookstore, but it closed in 2016 after 120 years of business.

Phones, Asklipiou Street

I am not a fan of graffiti, but it adds some color to the rather severe limestone walls. It does not do much for the phone booths. 

Lycabettus Hill from the National Museum (50mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

Mrs. Poppy's store in the Plaka (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

Monasteraki Square (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

Deep thinking, Athenas Street

Most of these frames are from Kodak Portra 160 film. If you are interested in earlier visits, including the 1950s, please type "Athens" in the search box.

Athenas Street, Athens, with the 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss C Biogon Lens (Nov. 2024)

I've walked along Athinas Street tens of time over the decades, but I can't resist re-exploring each time I visit Athens (Greece). The noises, smells, colors, signs, tourists, merchants, and bustle make it fun if a bit intense. These vendors sell almost everything for the household except, possibly, large appliances. 

This last trip was in November of 2024. In the past, November in Athens could be cold, wet, and blustery. But 2024 smiled on us. It was dry and reasonably warm. My relatives tell me that more and more tourists linger in Athens later in the season than pre-pandemic. Greece as a winter destination?

This time, I wanted to try my 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss ZM Biogon lens. It is wide enough to let you grab big chunks of the scene, which is handy on crowded streets. I used Portra 160 film in my Leica M2 camera and measured the light with a Gossen Luna Pro digital light meter. 

These card phones still work?

Ah, some colorful grunge

Central Market

The Central Market is best early morning, when vendors and buyers haggle over octopus, fish, and other goodies. I have written about the market before. If you are interested, type "Central Market" in the search box.

The spice vendor. I always take bags of fresh oregano home to USA with me.

The nut vendor

Dear Readers, you know where this is going. What do you do after several tiring hours exploring the city? Why, you go eat fish, of course!

I suggest Attalos Restaurant at Adrian 9 in the Thissio area near the Flea Market. Don't forget some Horta (Χόρτα) for your greens, a glass of Retsina, and baklava for dessert.

This ends our short walk downtown. More Athens and Greece to come soon.

My Leica M2 with the 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss C Biogon lens, correct Zeiss hood, and a Leitz 21mm viewfinder. Note the finder is offset so as to not cover part of the shutter speed dial.

Kodak T400CN Film in Athens, Nov. 2024 (Abandoned Films 13c)

Here are some more examples of the long-discontinued Kodak T400CN black and white film in Athens, Greece (also see the previous article on using T400CN). Being long expired (the film, not me), I exposed it at Exposure Index 50 in my Leica M2 camera. It is a bit limiting in dark places, but I was careful to hold steadily, so even exposures of 1/30 or 1/60 of a second look fine.

Athenas Street with Monasteraki Square in the distance (Leica M2, 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon lens)

Mrs. Poppy's souvenir store in the Plaka (21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon lens)

Anafiotika kitty (below the Acropolis)

Kitties in the twisty winding alleys below the Acropolis are a thing. I saw two photographers with big lenses concentrating on cat portraits.

Anafiotika artwork (21mm Biogon lens)

Anafiotika artwork (21mm Biogon lens)

First Cemetery, Athens (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

First Cemetery is the resting place for generations of prominent Athenian citizens, including politicians, poets, authors, and even Heinrich Schliemann.

Seattle Sonics having a coffee at carpo, Psychico 

Beetle in front of traditional villa, Psychico

I remember when Psychico was a quiet town of traditional 2-floor villas. My parents rented one in the 1950s. But now, and quickly, Psychico is becoming a suburb of apartment buildings. 

Northeast Photographic in Bath, Maine, processed the T400CN film in standard C-41 chemistry. I scanned the film with a Nikon Coolscan 5000ED scanner, controlled by NikonScan 4.03 software. The digital ICE system effectively cleans spots and blemishes.

Kodak T400CN Film in Greece - Success! (Abandoned Films 13b)

Film Background

Dear Readers, I did it again. The previous roll of long-expired Kodak T400CN film was only partly successful. But this time, it worked.

T400CN was a black and white film designed to be developed in C-41 chemistry, the same as popular color print films. The big advantage for me is that if I scan the film with my Nikon Coolscan 5000ED scanner, the digital ICE infrared function cleans scratches and dust. It is so effective, it seems like magic. But this only works with films that use dye clouds, meaning color print film or black and white films like the T400CN. The ICE will not work with regular black and white films, like Tri-X. I like traditional silver-based film, but the extra step of cleaning dust flecks adds a lot of extra time in front of a Photoshop screen. 

This film was originally rated at exposure index of 400. For the previous roll, I used 100 because of the age. But the negatives were desperately thin. Come to find out, the laboratory at Evergreen College probably made a mistake with timing or chemical mixture. Regardless, I decided to use EI = 50 in Greece. The film went to Northeast Photographic in Bath, Maine, and came back rich and full tone. It is fine-grained and high resolution.  

Here are some examples from Messolonghi in western Greece. Click any picture to see the frame at 2400 pixels wide.

Messolonghi

Salt production (Leica M2, 90mm ƒ/4 Elmar lens, deep yellow filter)

Salt mountain (50mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

Messolonghi is surrounded by shallow lagoons used for salt production and fish farming. Hellenic Saltworks S.A. fills lagoons with salt water and then lets them dry over time. They pile the salt into these impressive mountains for final drying.  

Chapel wall at Etoliko, surrounded by salt lagoons (90mm ƒ/4 Elmar lens)

Unused municipal office next to the Garden of Heroes (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

Tourlida village with wood cottages supported on stilts (21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss ZM Biogon lens)

Traditional fishing boat, Klisova Lagoon (90mm ƒ/4 Elmar lens)

All in all, I am pleased. I will use my remaining rolls of T400CN at EI=50. It is a bit slow but quite manageable in normal daylight (but maybe not for a gloomy winter day in Olympia). Stand by for more examples in the future.