Pearl Street Houses, Vicksburg, Mississippi (Fairground to Klein Street)

Pearl Street view north during rare snowfall. Note that no houses stand on the west (left) side of the tracks. Kodak Verichrome Pan film, Hasselblad 501CM camera, 80mm lens.

We will continue our review of historic Pearl Street in Vicksburg, Mississippi. This covers the houses north of Fairground Street. This is not a comprehensive inventory because I did not photograph every house. Please see the previous article for the area south of Fairground Street. The color photographs are scans of Kodachrome 25 film. Click any frame to see a larger view. We will proceed from south to north, with house numbers decreasing.

I previously wrote about Pearl Street in 2010 and 2014. Below I have repeated a few of the photographs from the earlier articles, but I reprocessed the scans to improve the color or exposure.

Fairground Street to Speed Street east side (odd number houses)

2529 Pearl Street (Leica 90mm ƒ/2.8 Tele-Elmarit lens)

2529 and 2531 Pearl Street (Leica IIIC, 5cm ƒ/3.5 Elmar lens)

2529 and 2531 Pearl Street at sunset

2531 Pearl Street (note the sealed doorway)

2521 Pearl Street

2521 Pearl Street

This venerable duplex has been perched on this hill forever. The brick front steps are impressive. The house has been in poor condition for decades, but I think it is occupied.

2515 Pearl Street

2509 Pearl Street

2423 Pearl Street (no longer extant)

2421 Pearl Street (Leitz 50mm ƒ/2.8 Elmar lens)

2421 Pearl Street

A wide grassy lot is just north of 2421. I do not know how many houses once occupied that strip. 

Undated post card from Tuminello's Restaurant

The building in which Tuminello's Kitchen was located is still standing at the corner of Pearl and Speed Streets, but the restaurant has been closed since the late-1980s or early-1990s. It was highly regarded in its day as one of Vicksburg's best restaurants. I ate there several times.

Pearl Street view south (Rolleiflex camera)

The brick-faced building on the left (north) side of the street is the former Tuminello's Kitchen.

Some handsome tour houses, including Annabelle Bed and Breakfast, occupy the east side of the block between Speed and Klein Streets. They are obscured by thick hedges and I do not have photographs of them.  

Fairground to Speed Street west side (even number houses)

2508 Pearl Street (no longer extant)

2430 Pearl Street (no longer extant)

2430 Pearl Street (no longer extant; 50mm ƒ/2.8 Leitz Elmar-M lens)

2428 Pearl Street (no longer extant)

2426 Pearl Street (no longer extant)

2426 Pearl Street

2420 Pearl Street

2418 Pearl Street (Leitz 50mm ƒ/2.8 Elmar lens)

2414 Pearl Street

2410 Pearl Street (house and store?)

Speed Street to Klein Street west side (even number addresses)

The old-fashioned store at 2328 Pearl Street was decorated with some nicely-done portraits of civil rights icons in the 2002-2005 era. The building now is a dingy uniform tan color and is closed. It is made of cinderblock, which suggests it was built post-WWII.

2304 Klein Street (no longer extant; Ektar 25 film, Rolleiflex camera)

2302 Klein Street (no longer extant)

North of the store, no houses are standing as of 2021. The level crossings at Speed and Klein Streets have been closed and blocked. This way, the trains do not need to sound their deafening horns. 

Railroad Avenue view downhill to the west (Fuji X-E1 digital image)

Railroad Avenue must have once been lined houses, but most are now gone. I am sure at one time, men from these houses worked at the railroad yard at the base of the hill. My friend said soot from steam locomotives soiled laundry.  

This ends our brief review of the central section of Pearl Street. The next article will cover the zone north of Klein Street.

Pearl Street Houses, Vicksburg, Mississippi (South Section; Kodachrome Film)

Introduction

A few days before Thanksgiving (2020), a gent from Maryland emailed me about my photographs of Pearl Street. He had grown up on there in the 1960s and said my photographs of the houses along both sides of the railroad tracks were the only ones he could find on the web. We met one afternoon and walked around. He was in town to visit his 94-year-old mother, who no longer lived in the old family home and now lived in another part of town. 

The family home had just recently been razed, as shown by fresh dirt on the site. He told me that before the urban renewal program of the 1970s, they all used outhouses behind the houses. Federal funds covered the cost of installing sewers and connecting piping to the houses. He also remembered when Tuminello's (500 Speed Street) was considered the finest restaurant in town, but African Americans were not allowed to eat there. Several small local grocery stores catered to the local residents. All the children knew each other and played together, and parents kept an eye on the games.

My friend's visit inspired me to look over Kodachrome slides that I took along Pearl Street over the years. Some I had scanned before, and I scanned the remainder. I will show reduced-size versions below. They are ordered from south to north, so the house numbers decrease. See the caption under each frame for the address. Many of these cottages have been demolished, and today there is nothing left to see. Brush and trees occupy many of the former house lots. Click any frame to see a larger view of 1600 pixels on the long dimension.

Pearl Street south of Fairground Street

2607 Pearl Street

2605 Pearl Street

2603 Pearl Street

These houses are still extant. The railroad embankment runs right in front of their porches and ruins the view. At least the locomotives no longer sound their deafening horns now. I took these photographs from the tracks.

Fairground Street

Fairground Street Keystone bridge, view east, photograph taken from top of petroleum tank at Levee Street tank farm

501-509 Fairground Street cottages, photograph taken from top of petroleum tank at Levee Street tank farm

503-507 Fairground Street (Leitz 90mm ƒ/2.8 Tele-Elmarit lens)

502 Fairground Street (2020 photograph taken with Kodak Ektar 25 film, Hasselblad 501CM camera)

Fairground Street Keystone bridge (Leica IIIC, 5cm ƒ/3.5 Elmar lens, ⅒ ƒ/11.5)

Fairground Street Bridge from KCS tracks (Kodak Ektar 25 film, Hasselblad 501CM camera, 80mm ƒ/2.8 Planar-CB lens)

Fairground once was a through street that gave access to Levee Street on the west side of the railroad yard. I remember driving over the Keystone bridge in the 1980s, but the city deemed it unsafe and closed it to traffic in the 1990s. At one time, the City was going to move it to the Catfish Park at the waterfront, but nothing came of the plan. 

Fairground Street view north

KCS train heading south. Note iron rooftops on the left

This is the view north along the tracks on the east side of Pearl Street. At one time, a parallel road on the west side extended as far as the cottages on the west (see the iron roofs). All these houses are now gone.

Film Notes

The last of the Kodachrome 25 film.

Most of the photographs above are scans of Kodachrome 25 (K25) color slide film. Kodachrome was the world's first successful color transparency film. Introduced in 1935 and modified over the years, it was in use until 2010, an amazing 75-year production history. Many people associate mid-century color photography with the colors of Kodachrome. It had a certain look. For more information about this historic film:

1. Mike Eckman wrote a blog post on Kodachrome and reproduced an excellent 50-year anniversary article from Modern Photography magazine. Mike reviews classic film cameras and summarizes articles on various film topics. 
2. Wikipedia has a good article with a timeline of the different emulsions.
3. A short 2009 article in Time.
4. Original sources and examples from filmcolors.org
5. Retrospective with contributed examples on casualphotophile.com. Casual is a great site for film photographers. 

I find Kodachrome difficult to scan with my Plustek 7600i film scanner, especially compared to scanning color negative (color print) film. Dense slides just do not scan well.  The color balance is often off, but using the "HDR" setting on the Silverfast Ai scanning software usually handles the colors reasonably well. Sometimes, I use the neutral grey dropper tool to set the colors. Placing the dropper tool on grey pavement usually works. My experience with Nikon's Coolscan scanners was better, but they are no longer in production and are extremely expensive on ePrey. And if the Coolscan unit fails, it may not be repairable any more.

Burmese Days 20b: The Golden Rock of Kyaiktiyo (revisited)

Dear Readers, I recently reviewed some of my older digital files. I realized that some of the most colorful frames were from my 2014 trip to Burma. I wrote about the famous Golden Rock in 2016, but here is a revisit in colour. 

Burma (now called Myanmar, but most of us old-timers still use the former name) has been in the news in early 2021 because of the military coup and the protests from civilians. The military has killed hundreds of protesters. That will shut down the tourist industry for an unknown period, especially if it leads to civil war. I am glad we visited in 2014 during a period of relative calm. 

One of the pilgrimage sites of profound importance to Buddhists is the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda (Burmese: ကျိုက်ထီးရိုးဘုရား) in Mon State of southeast Burma. Most westerners know it as the Golden Rock because the actual pagoda is a small structure perched on the top of a granite boulder. The boulder has been covered with layers of gold leaf over hundreds of years by devotees, and it glows gold in the setting sun. According to legends, the Golden Rock itself is perched on a strand of the Buddha's hair, and indeed, the rock is said to rock very slightly. Considering that Burma is in an earthquake zone, I am amazed that it has not rolled down from its precarious perch. The hilltop is at an elevation of 1,100 m (3,609 ft) above sea level.

The lower photograph is half of a stereo frame from Wikimedia Commons, "Kyaitteyo Pagoda, miraculously balanced by a hair of Buddha, on Kelasa hills, Burma", Date: 1900, Author:  Underwood and Underwood (in the public domain).

The rock and the pagoda are at the top of Mt. Kyaiktiyo. To reach the mountain, you drive or take a bus to the town of Kin Pun Sakhan. There you board a lorry which has been outfitted with bench seats in the bed. You and your jovial fellow-pilgrims are mashed together in the open air. Then the lorry grinds up the Golden Rock Mountain Road in caravan with other lorries. Much of the road is single-lane, so the lorries wait at sidings for other trucks going the other way. Finally, you reach the plateau area and disembark. The first impression is not very auspicious - sheds for the trucks, vendors of food and souvenirs, trash, grime. Hmmm...

The vendors sell some strange food. Centipedes? Fish and cakes made of unknown grain(?) or protein(?). Blood of centipedes? Jars of hot sauce?

We stayed in a reasonably nice hotel, the Mountain Top, near the stairs to the actual temple premises. Our room was clean, had private bath, and had a sublime view of the mountains and jungle to the east. The restaurant was a bit lacking but all right. Burmese pilgrims stay in more modest lodges with bunkhouses. Families may be able to rent entire rooms, and some pilgrims sleep outside.

Entrance to Kyaiktiyo (Tri-X 400 film, Leica M2 camera)

You access the temple complex by steps after you pay an entry fee. Two large lions guard the entrance, and from here on, you must be barefoot, which was difficult for my wife.

Families can camp up on the marble platform. We met some adorable children. They look healthy, intelligent, and alert.

Models pose for photographers. This is an interesting place; like the Swedagon in Rangoon, almost a merger of religious site and country fair.

At dawn, families wait for the sun to cast on the Golden Rock. They light incense and prey. Only men can go out on the balcony right up to the rock.

Pilgrams donate food and lay it out neatly along the railing next to the rock. It makes quite a mess, and I am not sure if the food is for monks or if it is cleaned up and discarded daily.

Looking north, you can see that the entire mountain top is covered with restaurants and guesthouses. I think these are mostly for Burmese visitors, while Western tourists stay in a couple of hotels on the south side. I do not know how they get drinking water.

Finally the ride back downhill in the lorry, squashed in with as many people as they can fit. 

Truly, the Golden Rock is unique. When you visit Burma (when it is safe again!), take a side trip to Kyaiktiyo. It takes about 4 or 5 hours to drive from Rangoon, for which you need to charter a car and driver and pay for hotel and food. Just go do it.

These are digital images from a Fuji X-E1 digital camera and Nexus 4 phone.