On the Waterfront - Seattle, Washington (Summer 2024)

The Seattle waterfront has changed drastically since I lived in Seattle in the mid-1970s. At that time, the horrible 2-level Alaskan Viaduct snaked along the waterfront. Underneath was a sort of nether-land, similar to the underside of the Southeast Expressway in Boston. But at least there was parking under the concrete. Back then, waterfront Seattle was a working district, with warehouses, small factories, and industrial activities. 

Today, the viaduct is gone! Alaskan Way is sunny. Now there are bike lanes, gardens, and a clean new surface street, Elliott Way. Warehouses have been rebuilt into condominiums, and totally new buildings have been erected. And the traffic flows underneath through the SR99 tunnel. 

Alaskan Way

Pier 50 view north along Alaskan Way (Kodak Tri-X film, Rolleiflex 3.5E camera)

The grotesque viaduct once marred this view. Now this is a cheerful and popular bund or esplanade.

This monstrous cruise ship loomed over the waterfront. I have never been close to a vessel this large. It was like a floating office building. I can understand why more and more popular destinations in the Mediterranean, like Venice, Santorini, and Barcelona, object to these ships disgorging thousands of tourists in a short period. They overwhelm the local infrastructure, water supply, and plumbing. But the merchants like the shoppers.

Pier 70 view south along Alaskan Way from the Olympia Sculpture Park

Sounder commuter train

BNSF tracks near Pier 66

In the past, I wondered where the trains came from that ran on the tracks parallel Alaskan Way. I only recently learned that the Great Northern Tunnel extends for about a mile under the business district. This was a major engineering accomplishment in 1904. The southern entrance is just north of the King Street station. The northern entrance emerges from the mountain almost under the Pike Place Market. The opening is obscured by fencing along Elliott Way.  This is another example of the great engineering that made a nation. 

Great Northern Tunnel north entrance (Samsung phone digital file)

BNSF freight train near Pier 70

It feels like a train comes along about every 15 minutes. The amount of commerce is amazing.

Pike Place Market

Everyone takes pictures and selfies at the famous Pike Place Market. My Olympia photography friend comes here often and does excellent work. I took pictures in the Market in 1973 when I lived in Seattle. 

The famous Pioneer Building is a Richardsonian Romanesque edifice of stone, red brick, terra cotta, and cast iron. It faces Pioneer Square, now rather grungy because of the homeless and filth. 

I remember entering the Pioneer Building when it was being renovated in the early 1970s. There was an inner atrium with iron railings. Somewhere in the basement was the well-known French restaurant, the Brasserie Pittsbourg. I remember eating here with friends and, possibly, my dad. Do I have any photographs from those happy and innocent 1970s?

Entrance to the Brasserie Pittsbourg, March 3, 1970 (courtesy of the Seattle Public Library, photograph by Werner W. Lenggenhager, 1899-1988)

This ends our short walk in downtown Seattle and along the waterfront. I took these photographs on Kodak Tri-X 400 film with a Rolleiflex 3.5E camera with 75mm ƒ/3.5 Xenotar lens. This is a 1959 model still going strong. Most Rolleiflex twin lens cameras are superb picture machines. Praus Productions in Rochester, NY, developed the film.

When Film is too Old (Seattle 04)

Sample film strip, Epson Perfection 3200 Photo scanner

Oh, oh, some old film is just that, film that should have been discarded long ago. 

I bought an expired roll of Kodak High Definition film (Max 400??) at Photoland, the laboratory at The Evergreen State College in Olympia. It had been frozen but was much too old. I wanted to test my new/old Pentax MG. I had never heard of High Definition, and online information was scarce. It may have been discontinued around 2005. Kodak had a bad habit of renaming their various emulsions, often changing names in different markets. 

Most of the roll was grossly underexposed, and holding the strip up to the light, I could barely see any image data. The Epson 3200 flat bed scanner was remarkable at its ability to extract something for me to review. Some of the frames from Seattle looked marginally promising. I am amazed how well my Nikon Coolscan 5000 can extract data from a lousy negative. For the examples below, I scanned the frames with the Coolscan's automatic exposure function. Then I opened some of the frames in Photoshop and manually adjusted the contrast.   

Arriving at King Street Station, Seattle

King Street Station

Smith Tower from Jackson Street

Maybe I'll Walk-In (or maybe not)

Pine Street scooters

I am a Rockfish. Make some delicious fish 'n chips from me. Note the enormous eyes.

Rockfish are rather ugly. They live on rocky bottoms in cold water. There are at least 30 species in the Pacific Northwest. But they are delicious eating. Dingey's at the Olympia Farmers Market offers rockfish fish 'n chips. 

Let's drop in to Party in Reality. Well, maybe no.

I took these pictures with a Pentax MG camera, which has aperture priority autoexposure (meaning, you select an aperture on the lens, and the camera sets the correct shutter speed based on the through-the-lens light meter). The MG meters for as long as 14 or 15 seconds, which would be useful for tripod-mounted scenes. 

But because the film was so flawed, I do not know if the exposures were correct. The lens was a 50mm ƒ/2 Pentax-A with an unusual 5-element air-spaced optical design. 

Expired color film is a gamble. It just does not age well. Do not bother buying it. But black and white films, especially slow speeds, seem to last for years, especially if stored cool. Long-term readers may remember my amazing results with 60-year-old Versapan film packs. 

From the Archives: Pike Place Market (Seattle) in 1973

Once upon a time, when I was young and energetic, I lived in Seattle, Washington, while attending the University of Washington (the 'Dub). I liked to go downtown with my friends to explore or eat at interesting restaurants. I found some March 1973 negatives from that previous life. 

My dad had been visiting from out of state. We took the ferry boat to Bremerton and later explored Pike Place Market. He liked Pike Place, but that was expected. He was an old hand at exploring markets, such as the famous Flea Market in Athens or the Scott's Market in Rangoon.

My dad checking out the scene

The fish fellow looked crabby

Candles were such a thing in the 1970s

Mellow time, 1973-style

Chopping the cows.

Stacking the crabs neatly. It reminds me of the Central Market in Athens. 

I took these photographs on Kodak Tri-X 400 film with my Nikkormat FTn camera and 28mm ƒ/3.5 or 50mm ƒ/2 Nikkor lenses. I vaguely recall developing the film in the darkroom in McMahon Hall with Microdox-X developer. I did not know what I was doing, but still, the negatives have survived a half century (just as our digital files will, right?). They were scratched and had dirt and lint issues, so I cleaned the examples you see here with the heal tool in Photoshop CS6. 

We will look at more Seattle pictures in future articles. Please type "Seattle" in the search box to see older entries.