A Cornucopia of Preservation: Redlands, California

Regular readers of this blog know I usually record neglect and decay in our cities and towns.  In too many places in America, historic houses and commercial buildings have been neglected, torn down, and replaced with nasty, cut-rate, build-it-cheap structures. Optimize cash flow today and forget about our legacy to future generations. Have you seen the 25+ miles of cul-de-sacs and McMansion ghettos as you fly into Hartsfield Airport in Atlanta? Have you seen the ghastly typical strip outside of a small town? What happened to pride in our towns and nation?

But this time, I want to show you that the opposite is possible: urban preservation.  Redlands, California, a bedroom community about 60 miles east of Los Angeles, is the "Jewel of the Inland Empire." 

The streets in the historic district are planted with spectacular palms.  From Wikipedia, "At the turn of the 20th century, Redlands was the "Palm Springs" of the next century, with roses being planted along many city thoroughfares. Some of these plantings would survive as wild thickets into the 1970s, especially adjacent to orange groves where property management was lax. Washingtonia palms (Washingtonia robusta) were planted along many main avenues. In fact, Redlands was the first city to have center medians with trees or gardens in between roads. So beautifully kept was the area, with the dramatic mountain backdrops, that for several years the Santa Fe Railroad operated excursion trains along the loop that passed through the orange groves of Redlands and Mentone, across the Santa Ana River, and back into San Bernardino via East Highlands, Highlands and Patton…"

1908 panorama of Redlands, California

The 1908 panorama shows the rows and rows of orange and grapefruit trees. This was a major commodity in the early 20th century, made possible by an efficient railroad infrastructure and a complex water system, which allowed irrigation in this semi-arid setting.

The historic district south of Interstate 10 and the hills south of town have retained the garden city look. Unfortunately, most of the orange groves are gone, but a few small ones remain, and the town has a lush profusion of exotic plants.  Most are introduced species, of course, but cheap water makes the green lawns and beautiful flowers possible.

It is an eye-opener to visit a city like Redlands with its collection of early 20th century houses in amazing condition.  Several factors must have contributed:  

• The climate: Redlands is dry, and wood does not rot as rapidly as in wetter areas. 
• Residents lived in their historic houses, precluding a large-scale conversion to rentals.
• They were wealthy enough to maintain their houses properly over the decades. 
• The city may have been wise enough to offer incentives to maintain the historical areas.  
• The city may have had strict zoning.
• Somehow Redlands avoided the scourge of white flight (for an extreme example, see Detroit).
• And most important, the residents had pride.  

Cajon Street from East Vine, view southeast.

In 1908, you would have taken the train to the Santa Fe depot (subject of a future blog article) and walked south on Orange Street. Orange turns into Cajon Street, and at the corner of East Vine, you reach the police station, library, churches, and other civic buildings. Proceed southeast, and elegant houses line the road.

215 Cajon Street. Note the arch-topped inset balcony on the third floor.

A professional office at 256 Cajon Street.

425 Cajon Street, another property with lush vegetation.

504 Cajon Street.  Cool tower sticking out of the roof, and handsome wrap-around porch.

513 Cajon Street, a bit more severe than the previous examples, but with a distinctive dormer on the third floor.

523 Cajon Street.  A handome Victorian with a wrap-around porch.

633 Cajon Street.  Note the amazing tree house.

726 Cajon Street.

734 Cajon Street. Flowers and an amazing cactus under the tree.

755 Cajon Street, Spanish style in a somewhat severe interpretation. 

928 Cajon Street, another example with a great corner tower and dormer window.  This is almost a mirror image of 504. And this one has rose trees...

1004 Cajon Street, an impressive Victorian in immaculate condition. I love the corner tower.

These are just some of the houses on Cajon Street. See the captions for the addresses.

Olive was another elegant residential street. One of the more unusual homes is at 405 West Olive. This exuberant pseudo-Moorish design was (is) a bit over the top, but it fits in the Southern California setting. It was built in 1903 for William F. Holt, a St. Louis developer and capitalist. One of its unusual features is a 1-lane bowling alley in the basement.  Many of Redlands' finer homes were built in the turn of the century by wealthy easterners, who came to southern California in the winter months to escape snow and pollution.

Olive Apartments, 24 West Olive Avenue.  Notice the repeating theme of the arches.

316 West Olive Avenue.  Elegant wood house with detail woodwork on the balcony.

533 West Olive Avenue.  Arts and crafts cottages like this are common in Redlands.

501 West Olive Avenue.

West Olive Avenue, running northeast to southwest, is a prestigious residential street.

Alvadaro Street.  I have seen handsome houses like this in Pittsburgh and other eastern cities. Note the impressive clay tile roof and the balcony-dormer.

621 Alvarado Street, surrounded by the lush vegetation.

Alvarado Street. A ranch style with immaculate garden.

Alvarado Street.  A large version of an Arts and Crafts cottage. The pillars made of river rock are seen in many houses here.

Alvarado street runs from Smiley Park at West Olive southeast to Prospect Park.

103 South Beuna Vista Street.

105 South Center Street

Close by are South Center and South Buena Vista Streets, also with nicely-maintained properties.

511 Linda Place

623 Linda Place

Linda Place has somewhat more modest cottages, many in immaculate condition.

604 Linda Place, with drought-tolerant plants instead of lawn.

604 Linda Place, with unusual river rock walls but no posts - the roof cantilevers out over the porch.

This is an amazing:sight: mahogany tongue-and-groove flooring.  

The unusual kitchen tiles that show early 20th century advertisements from the citrus packers.

A recent Redlands home-buyer documents her adventures in her Time-Axis blog. You can read about lead paint over the ages and similar topics.  Click the link to see the Santa Fe depot in Redlands. 

This is a portal for the Inland Empire, the area east of Los Angeles. It was once a lush paradise of citrus farms, but now much has been despoiled by suburban sprawl and industry.

Photographs taken with a Panasonic G3 camera, most with the 20 mm f/1.7 Lumix lens.  Raw files reprocessed with PhotoNinja.

Country Store Still in Business: Roy's Store, Chatham, Mississippi

Roy's Store is one of the rare 100-year old Mississippi country stores that is still in business, and doing very well with its clientele of hunters and fishermen. Located at 2202 Lake Washington Road near the northern end of Lake Washington, it has survived floods and the Great Depression.

Roy's Store and Cabins, Chatham, Mississippi

The front has been fixed up and has modern gasoline pumps.

 

 

The inside is full of useful stuff for fishermen, along with and bits and pieces from the old days.  Stop for a coffee or snack. As of 2008, there was not yet an espresso machine.

Old Highway 61, Chatham, Mississippi

This is part of the original U.S. Highway 61. It is a single concrete lane running straight through the farmland.  It was explained to me that in the 1920s, the State could only afford to pave a single lane, which was adequate in an era when few people had cars or mechanized farm machines.

In winter, this is an excellent area for birding.  These people are participating in the annual Audubon Society Christmas bird count.

Lake Washington

Lake Washington is rimmed with cypress trees and is a great place to see cormorants, grebes, and other waterfowl. It is well worth a visit. Close by are the two abandoned mansions at Lake Washington.

For more information on Roy's Store and Cabins, call 662-827-2588.

Update June 5 2017: An Australian gent posted some wonderful photos of Roy's Store on his blog, The Rolling Road. Click the link. He is a Leica photographer.

Burks Grocery, Cook Road, Edwards, Mississippi

On our continuing tour of country stores, here is one more: Burks Grocery on Cook Road, Edwards. 

The modest wood building is south of Highway 27, set among small homes and trailers.

Burks Grocery, Cook Road

The store also sold gasoline.  The sales were recent enough to be in the unleaded era (post-1970s).

On a quiet afternoon, sit on the porch and chat with your neighbors. We have lost a lot in our society with the transition to giant supermarkets and Super WalMarts. Who sits outside the Kroger and chats with his neighbors?

Photographs taken with a Panasonic G3 or Fuji X-E1 digital cameras, tripod-mounted. On the G3, I used a manual-focus Olympus OM 50mm f/3.5 macro lens.

Abandoned Hinds County School, Utica, Mississippi

Just south of the Morning Star Baptist Church at the junction of Old Port Gibson and Adams Station Roads is a one-floor, two-room cinder block school building. It has been unused for at least a decade, and part of the roof is collapsing.

This was a basic cinderblock building with steel push-out windows.

Windows facing the south let in plenty of sunshine.

My friend from Utica told me that many of these simple, two-room schools were built in the late-1960s - early 1970s for the Head Start program. They were funded by Lyndon Johnson's Great Society program in the late 1960s. According to Wikipedia,

The most important educational component of the Great Society was the Elementary and Secondary Education Act of 1965, designed by Commissioner of Education Francis Keppel. It was signed into law on April 11, 1965, less than three months after it was introduced. It ended a long-standing political taboo by providing significant federal aid to public education, initially allotting more than $1 billion to help schools purchase materials and start special education programs to schools with a high concentration of low-income children. During its first year of operation, the Act authorized a $1.1 billion program of grants to states, for allocations to school districts with large numbers of children of low income families, funds to use community facilities for education within the entire community, funds to improve educational research and to strengthen state departments of education, and grants for purchase of books and library materials. The Act also established Head Start, which had originally been started by the Office of Economic Opportunity as an eight-week summer program, as a permanent program.

The inside is a mess, with stacked up old furniture and piles of papers.

There are even two pianos waiting for restoration. Much of this furniture may be from the Morning Star church, using this as a convenient storage shed.

 

As a photographer, I love the patterns of shadow and light around furniture.

 

The roof is collapsing over the small side rooms that contained the toilets.

Schools tell us a lot about our society, our respect for learning, and about our optimism for the future. I am glad some one built this modest little facility but am sad it was abandoned. Hopefully, the contemporary Head Start children have a better facility. If any readers have more information about this and other schools, please let me know.

If you are interested in some other abandoned schools:

Utica High School
The Speed Street school in Vicksburg
Two-room schoolhouse in Carpenter
Yazoo County Ag. High School, Benton

The Bonner Campbell Institute, Edwards

I took these digital frames with a tripod-mounted Fuji X-E1 digital camera and the 27 mm ƒ/2.8 lens.  The little Fuji does a nice job with color balance inside. 

Update December 2020: Mississippi Department of Archives and History sponsored a renovation of the school. It has been re-roofed and repainted. Some windows are covered with plywood panels. Ultimate use: unknown.

Morning Star Country Store, Old Port Gibson Road, Utica, Mississippi

Another former country store sits at the corner of Old Port Gibson and Adams Station Roads near Utica. It is across the street from the Morning Star Baptist Church, whose address is 11449 Old Port Gibson Rd, Utica, Mississippi.

Morning Star store, Old Port Gibson Road, Utica

I am not sure if the store shared the Morning Star name, but that works well and locals will know what you mean.

The inside has a lot of old stuff on the shelves, and the roof is beginning to fail.  I am often surprised how these old stores look as if the proprietors one day decided not to open, abandoning papers, furniture, and materials in place.

My Utica friend told me that the owners once lived in this little cabin just off to the side of the store.  I thought it looked like a tiny motel unit with two rooms.

These are digital images from a Panasonic G3 digital camera with a 20 mm ƒ/1.7 Lumix lens.

UPDATE DEC. 2019: The store is still standing, but is in poor condition. Here are two views from a sunny day, taken on black and white film.

Morning Star store (Panatomic-X film, Hasselblad 501CM, 80mm ƒ/2.8 Planar-CB lens, yellow filter

Willis Store, Middle Road, Edwards, Mississippi

In the last article, we looked at an abandoned store at the junction of Newman and Canada Cross Roads. Proceed east a few miles on Canada Cross Road and you get to the intersection with Middle Road.  This is the site of the Willis Store.

Country stores in Edwards, Mississippi

Willis Store, corner of Canada Cross and Middle Roads, Edwards, Mississippi.

The building is in reasonably good condition and has modern lighting. But the price in the gasoline pump shows an older era.

This gasoline pump was last used when gasoline was $1.249/gallon, even though the "1" in the leftmost window is no longer visible.  If it was 24 cents/gallon, that would date this pump to the mid-1960s, a couple decades too old.  My friend remembered the business as active in the early 1980s.  Also, he told me that there was another old store in the woods south of the intersection, but the woods were thick, and I saw no remnants.

Jax Beer was brewed by the Jackson Brewery of New Orleans. Prior to 1956, it was brewed by the Jax Brewing Company of Jacksonville, Florida.

Historic home on Bill Strong Road, Edwards.

If you continue east, the road becomes Bill Strong Road.  About a mile east is a handsome historic house with six pillars.  The house may be unoccupied, but a cat crossed the porch, and just to the right, and couple of curious cows watched me.

The first three photographs were taken with a Fuji X-E1 digital camera and the 27 mm f/2.8 lens.  The old house was with a Panasonic G3 camera and 20 mm f/1.7 lens.  The black and white frames were reprocessed with PhotoNinja software.

Country store, Canada Cross Road, Edwards, Mississippi

Country stores in Edwards, Mississippi.  Map drawn with ESRI ArcMap software.

Regular readers may remember when I wrote about the now-closed Newman Plantation store, at the corner of Newman and Canada Cross Roads, in Edwards, Mississippi.

Newman Plantation store, Canada Cross Road, Edwards. Photograph processed with PhotoNinja software.

Here is another view of the Newman store, with its deep overhang to protect motorists in the old days when they were having their cars fueled or serviced (remember when attendants in pressed uniforms filled the gasoline, washed windows, and checked oil?). A friend from Utica remembered that the store was open in the early 1970s.

Abandoned store or farm shop, Canada cross Road, Edwards, Mississippi

Just to the west on Canada Cross Road is another abandoned store or farm supply warehouse. My friend remembers his grandmother telling him that this was the original Newman store, while the white building on the corner was the new store (new meaning from the 1930s). The mailbox shows 1940, but that applies to the house across the street.

In the woods behind are some old farm sheds.  They were once next to to cleared fields, but the trees have been growing here for decades. Over time, many farms in Mississippi have been abandoned, and the land is returning to timber.

Some farm implements are lying in the leaves - isn't the equipment worth repairing or selling for scrap?

My favorite subject matter: old junk in sheds or buildings. Compared to film, digital cameras are so easy to use in low-light conditions, and there is minimal color shift with long exposures. But always use a tripod.

This area once had many small country stores.  The Betigheimer store is now gone.  The Yates store is still standing, but unused. A former store in Farnham, Virginia, is now privately owned.  Click the names for the links to the articles.

Photographs taken with a Fujifilm X-E1 digital camera with the 27mm lens.  I rented it for a weekend and was very impressed with the resolution and color quality. All photographs tripod-mounted.