ΔHMOKPATIA - 50 Years Later (a Post for Independence Day in USA)

In 2024, Greece marked the 50 year anniversary of the Metapolitefsi period, the regime change when the nation restored democratic government after the ignoble collapse of the seven year military dictatorship. The dictatorship was a brutal period for Greece. The Colonels repressed newspapers, killed university students, and banned political parties. Readers may wonder why I am bringing up this subject. In years to come, restoring honest democracy will be a critical political issue for the USA considering this administration's:

• abrupt turn to autocracy;
• Kakistocracy*;
• the attempt to destroy knowledge;
• purging of history;
• attempting to supplant artistic endeavors in favor of censorship and propaganda;
• and gross kleptocracy. 

---

* "Kakistocracy (/ˌkækɪˈstɒkrəsi/ KAK-ist-OK-rə-see) is government by the worst, least qualified, or most unscrupulous people" (from Wikipedia) As usual, the Greeks had a term for incompetent and corrupt governance. But they may have never envisioned what we see in USA in 2025.

---

To honor the 50-year anniversary of the restoration of democracy in Greece, the National Gallery Alexandros Soutsos Museum in Athens mounted a collection of works by international artists who faced similar repression, hopes, and challenges. "We experience the liberating force unleashed on the collective body by the demand for democratic rights and investigate how the trauma of dictatorship was handled in the visual arts." (Text by Syrago Tsiara, Director / Exhibition Curator)

The following figures are some pages from the exhibit catalog.

Murdering Freedom

 

When will we face the enemy here in USA? Will we be brave enough put the corrupt on trial and honest enough to establish a Truth and Reconciliation Commission? In five or ten decades, will museums host works by American artists who spoke out?

The Mississippi Delta 40: Crenshaw

Dear Readers, I plan to review some of my older negatives from Mississippi as I have time. The Delta offered a wealth of photographic subject matter. In the future, you will see occasional articles based on early 2000s road trips around the state.

---

Crenshaw is a small town (population 210?) in Panola and Quitman counties. It is typical of many Delta agricultural towns that once had a thriving commercial strip but has fallen on hard (very hard) times. It looks depopulated, and most of the stores are empty or collapsing. These photographs are from April, 2018. The town probably does not look too different today (2025).

MS Hwy 3 comes right through town. This is the main road along which the commerce was once concentrated

The commercial strip is rather sad. Most (all?) of the stores are closed. The soul food restaurant looked like it did not operate.

There was once a public drinking fountain on the sidewalk in front of one of the stores. I wonder if it was once restricted for white or black users?

The police station was in a modest modern building. They were well-equipped with the big old Crown Victoria police cruisers.

William Stokes Street

This ends our quick pass on Hwy 3 through Crenshaw. It was a glarey day with harsh light. I wish I had made more time to explore the Delta, a unique cultural and architectural part of the USA. To see more towns, please type "Mississippi Delta" in the search box.

I took these photographs on Kodak TMax 100 film with a Pentax Spotmatic camera and various lenses. The TMax is very fine grain, but I think I prefer traditional cubic grain films. 

NO KINGS! in Olympia, Washington (Oly 20)

On June 14, 2025, over 5000 Olympians and other Washingtonians gathered at the Washington State Capitol to protest against the Trump administration and show solidarity with millions of protestors around the country at other rallies. 

I headed up the hill on my bicycle and took photographs, stopped at the booths, spoke to people, and sent a postcard to an eligible voter in Georgia, urging her to register to vote and support Jon Ossof. Several protesters and I commiserated how we now have a lot more respect for  Richard Nixon.

Signs and costumes lined Capitol Way, turning it into a honkfest from supportive motorists. 

I saw more policemen at the periphery of the Capitol grounds than during the previous protests, but they  were just standing around and chatting.

Recall how Jeffrey Epstein just sort of committed suicide while under supervision in a prison cell in New York State. Hmmm....

Less greed? Could it possibly be that this administration has become a giant state-sponsored kleptocracy? Naw, not our USA.....

This protest was one of hundreds held around the United States and even abroad. 

840 protests in USA (from ACLED)

I took these photographs with my Fuji X-E1 digital camera and the Fuji 18-55mm zoom lens. These are jpeg files from the camera with some cropping for display here. I used the Fuji Astia emulation (Astia was one of their later transparency films).

I photographed the Not My Presidents Day protest with black and white film. It has a different aesthetic look compared to the color digital frames above.

Nice Surprise! Tacoma with Fuji Presto 400 B&W Film (Abandoned Films 14b)

Classic B&W Film

My Indiana friend, Jim Grey, sent me some 3-packs of a type of Fuji film I had never used before, Presto 400. This was the Japanese name for their Neopan 400 Professional, a high-speed, black and white negative film with an ISO speed of 400. I read that Fuji originally aimed this product at sports and documentary photography. Sadly, Fuji discontinued it in 2013.

This film reached me via one of the handy connectivity functions that the internet can provide (sometimes). A fellow in North Carolina wrote to Hamish Gill of 35MMC.com that he wanted to donate some film to help fund the web page. But there was a minor problem. The film was in North Carolina, and Hamish was in the United Kingdom. Hamish emailed some of his regular US contacts, and, by amazing coincidence, Jim Grey was heading to North Carolina on business in a week. Jim went to see the donor and found a refrigerator full of film that had been imported from Japan. I do not know the details, but Jim sent half the film to Hamish and distributed the rest in USA. Jim generously sent some packs to me.

Tacoma, Washington

I like Tacoma! The waterfront is full of interesting industrial and railroad subject matter. On a rainy-drizzly day, I wandered around the waterfront with Presto in my Pentax MG camera. I set the exposure index at 320. Click any picture to see more details.

BNSF rail yard from East D Street (50mm ƒ/2 Pentax-A lens)

Turntable, BNSF rail yard

BNSF rail yard (50mm ƒ/2 Pentax-A lens)

East D Street view south (toning as a result of scanning as RGB full color; 135mm ƒ/3.5 Pentax-M lens)

Berg scaffolding company (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

Berg scaffolding company (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

Crossing tracks, J Street (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

Rail cars, J Street (50mm ƒ/2 Pentax-A lens)

Wood warehouse, East D Street, from under the 11th Street bridge

East D Street from the 11th Street bridge (35mm ƒ/2.8 Pentax-A lens)

This Presto 400, I love it! It is grainy, like 1970s and 1980s Kodak Tri-X (pre T-grain technology). This Presto has a gritty sharpness to it. I hate to use the term "sharp"because it has become a semi-useless buzzword among internet photo posters ("Is my lens sharp enough?"). But I am referring to contrast and edge distinction. Regardless of nomenclature, I plan to use more Presto in the future. Thanks, again, Jim! 

This is Abandoned Films no. 14b. I used Presto earlier this year when I took portraits at the Not My Presidents Day protest. Please use the search button if you are interested in other long-lost films. 

Another milestone: this is Urban Decay's 800th post.

1700s Cavanserai or Han, Eminönü District, Istanbul (Nov. 2024)

The Ottomans conquered Constantinople on May 29, 1453, after a 55-day siege. Unlike the exhausted, bankrupt (financially and politically), and demoralized Byzantine Empire, the Ottomans were energetic and militarily more sophisticated. The Ottomans already controlled the vast hinterland of Anatolia and swaths of the Middle East. To encourage trade, they built caravanserai, protected and safe trading posts, where merchants could shelter over the night or during bad weather and exchange goods. They were safe from bandits. Many semi-ruined caravanserai are still found in remote areas, attesting to trade routes. (As an aside, my dad, a hydraulic engineer, often asked where these remote outposts got drinking water. Were areas of Anatolia wetter in the Medieval period?)

Some of these caravanserai, also known as han, are in the Eminönü district of Istanbul. They were originally intended to serve as inns and trading centers, where merchants operated shops and warehoused goods. Hundreds of years later, these hans are still in use.  

Büyük Yeni Han, completed in 1764 (Leica M2, 21mm ƒ/4.5 Zeiss Biogon lens)

Büyük Yeni Han (note the air conditioners)

From Wikipedia:

The han' is located in the central historic market district that extends from the Grand Bazaar to the Eminönü neighbourhood on the shore of the Golden Horn. Since the founding of the first bedesten by Mehmet II in the mid-15th century, the Grand Bazaar developed into the city's main hub of international trade, spawning entire districts of shops, warehouses, and merchant lodgings. A han, a type of urban caravanserai, was a common type of commercial structure in Ottoman architecture (and more broadly in Islamic-world architecture) which served a number of functions including lodging for foreign merchants, storage for goods or merchandise, housing for artisan workshops, and offices from which to conduct dealings. A number of hans were built over the centuries in and around the Grand Bazaar district. The Büyük Yeni Han was completed in 1763 or 1764 CE (1177 AH) on the orders of Sultan Mustafa III.

A structure from the 19th century bridges across the courtyard, unfortunately blocking the grand expanse of the original rectangle han.

Entrance archway to Büyük Yeni Han (35mm ƒ/2 Summicron lens)

I stumbled into the Büyük Yeni Han somewhat by accident. I was looking for a balcony or platform to take some pictures of the rooftops. I walked into the arch and saw some steep dark steps leading upwards. That seemed promising. Soon I was on the third level. There was even a rough but usable lavatory up there.

I love complicated rooftops like this. It is a pity that most of the modern buildings are rectangle concrete boxes.

Houses built into the side of Büyük Yeni Han

Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the ultimate arcade of them all. But it is so clean! The ceiling is decorated, the floors are polished, and it is well lit. And there is WiFi, and no one smokes inside. And people pay with plastic. Where is the earthy bazaar I recall from 1965?

Modern arcade in the Sultanahmet area

Well, Istanbul never ceases to provide interesting subject material. It is on my must-return list. If you have not been there, GO VISIT.

I took these photographs with Kodak Tri-X film using my Leica M2 and various lenses. Northeast Photographic in Bath, Maine developed the film in Xtol. I scanned it on a Nikon Coolscan 5000 scanner.